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1938A Restoration

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oneandgone View Drop Down
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    Posted: September-24-2017 at 8:48pm
I failed to take a picture of the assembled gun when I received it, but I can assure you it was extremely rough. I took it apart a long time ago and am finally fixing it up and putting it together. I am waiting on some parts, but here are some pics of the progress so far non the less.





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Tbird View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 11:27am
nice!  Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cobalt327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 2:46pm
Major improvement!
I don't think I know of anyone else who has a 1938A. If the info I have is correct, the 1938As that were sent back to Daisy because of the defective safety were returned stamped "A-B", and on yours there appears to be just the "A" marking. Do you notice any obvious difference between the A trigger assembly and a B?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote the fuse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 7:29pm
Very nice. What paint are you using on there?
All I'm for is the liberty of the individual.
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oneandgone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oneandgone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 8:13pm
Thanks guys! I have a parts gun coming that should ship in the next day or two. I also called Daisy today and ordered a pile of parts for it too. I can't wait to get it on the wall with my other Red Ryders.

Mark- Willielumplump I think had one that had been back to Daisy and had 1938A-B painted, possibly silk screened, onto the receiver if I remember right. It's unfortunate he sold all of his guns off spur of the moment to one reseller. He had some, that one included, that I would have loved to have had. 

As for the trigger, there were pieces of this one broken off when I removed it. I haven't had a 38B trigger in my hand yet, once I do I'll put up a side by side pic if I notice a difference. Hard to say at this point which trigger was removed from this particular gun. IF they were stamped with the -B then I agree, this one probably wasn't sent in for the recall. If they were silk screened with 1938A-B then it's hard to say if it's been back or not. The condition was so poor that it would most likely have been gone. 

The only other one I know of currently was also very rough and restored. I'll give the owner a call and see what he can tell me about his. 

Stuart-I used a direct to metal paint that we use at work as a base over the bare metal. It is designed to etch into the metal and to match factory electrode deposit primer used on automotive parts. Once it tacked off I used a trim black that we also use at work. They are both rattle can. The trim black really matches pretty good, but isn't quite as glossy as the Daisy paint. We do have a clear coat that could be applied and some other blacks with different sheens. With more trial and error I can probably find a more perfect match. All in all though I'm quite happy, especially considering where I started.
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cobalt327 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cobalt327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 9:25pm
I was also surprised when willylumplump sold his collection. I heard about it after seeing a bunch of nice Daisy specimens being sold on eBay. I posted a heads-up about it here at Daisy Talk and that's when he said the guns were his! I'm glad he was happy with the transaction, though. For him to have shipped a collection the size of his a gun or two at a time would have been brutal!
 
Anyway, for comparison sake, the current production 1938B trigger with the anti beartrap rack is below. The 1938A wouldn't have the rack obviously, but should look very similar otherwise. The hole for the screw that secures the 1938A and B plastic trigger is lower on the receiver than the earlier 1- or 2-piece steel triggers (and the end of the plunger tubes are different between plastic and steel triggers to boot) so they won't interchange, but it looks like a 1938B trigger should drop right in after removing the rack. I'm thinking you have already ordered everything you need, but I have several triggers on hand so if you need one let me know and I'll get it out to you.
 

3. UNKNOWN. Came to me in a pile of hardware, would like to know what it fits
4. 1938B

 

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oneandgone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oneandgone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 10:35pm
Mark, you're making my head spin! The amount of things you know about these guns off the top of your head is impressive! I anticipated the B trigger to be a drop in, sounds like it won't be. I have what I think is an early B gun coming for parts and have also ordered a handful of things as well. In the meantime I'm going to dig the trigger that was in my A out, clean it up, and take a pic to post here. I think it looks more like your unknown trigger than the B trigger you posted. To B continued....Or To A continued....lol
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oneandgone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oneandgone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 10:54pm
Ok, so after closer inspection this trigger is different than the unknown one you posted. It looks pretty identical to the B trigger, except for the extended sawblade bit. I assume this is what you referred to as anti beartrap. You should be able to see the areas where plastic is missing in the pics below...













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oneandgone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oneandgone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 11:01pm
On another note...I had a long convo tonight with the only other fellow I know of who currently has a 1938A. His he restored years ago. He said he can't recall just how bad of shape it was in at the time, but knows he wasn't happy with the condition of it or he would have left it alone. Most likely that means it was rough.

He said he does not recall it having a silk screen of 1938A-B on it. It sounds like it's unknown if the condition was poor enough that it could have worn off. He thinks probably not. Lastly it definitely does not have a -B stamped into the receiver aft the A.

I think I've piqued his curiosity a bit and he is considering looking into the trigger a bit more. Overall he believes it to be a 1938A that was not sent in for the recall and is original, aside from being disassembled and visually restored.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cobalt327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 11:42pm
I don't recall ever reading what the recall was about other than it involved the safety. But whether it was a case of the gun shooting while on 'safe' or something else altogether I don't know.

 

 

The 1938B trigger may work in your gun. I say that based on my having used a Red Ryder Millennium 2000 trigger in a 1938B. But that assumes the 2000 trigger (it does not have the  anti-beartrap rack either) is the same as your "A" trigger. But the one you show above sure looks like the one I have in a 1938B.
 
 
To use the new B trigger in the A, I'd remove the anti beartrap rack (the part you mentioned earlier). For that matter, it may have to be removed to work at all. I have used the 1938B triggers with just the rack spring removed but I don't like having the rack flopping around inside the gun, was always concerned it would become jammed, so I started cutting the racks off with a dremel and cut-off wheel (it's basically impossible to remove the rack without irreversible damage to it). The anti-beartrap rack needs the correct plunger tube to work- which the A will not have anyway.
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