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abutment washer

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oldwizzer View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-27-2020 at 3:26pm
I seem to have done this once long ago but I just cant remember how to tighten a loose  abutment Washer on the older Red Ryder BB gun . Appreciate some help with instructions

thanks.
Ed.
Ejwills
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cobalt327 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cobalt327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2020 at 4:04pm
If it has come loose and is riding on the air tube, as long as the seal is still good, you can stick it back in place with adhesive. Here's some info I used elsewhere that might help.

To replace the original barrel seal, first you'll want to thoroughly degrease the compression chamber and the abutment. For degreasing, I use a 12ga. shotgun cotton/felt "mop" on a cleaning rod dampened with denatured alcohol. 91% isopropyl will work.

The factory staked the seal to hold it in place. I do not restake the seal. The barrel seal can be reinstalled using the original factory staking if an adhesive is used. I made a seal installation tool from an 18ā€ long piece of round 5/8" wood dowel with a pin in the center (a cut off nail works fine). The pin holds the seal in position as you slide it into the compression chamber. The idea is to put the seal back, in the same position as it was originally, or as close as you can.

Right before I install the barrel seal, I use a few spots of an adhesive called "E6000" on the backside of the seal to hold it in place (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Eclectic-E-6000-Adhesive-E6000-Precision-Tip-Adhesive-1-oz/52678045). It's a tough flexible material when it's cured. Another adhesive called "Shoe Goo" works too- if it's the same as it used to be. You don't want to use so much adhesive that it gets into the center hole of the barrel seal. Once the seal has been inserted and is against the abutment, I tap the end of the dowel with a mallet to be sure it's seated. Give it long enough to cure if you used adhesive before finishing the assembly.

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oldwizzer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldwizzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2020 at 6:43pm
Dumb question-So it has to be dissembled to get at it from the back.

Ed.
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cobalt327 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cobalt327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2020 at 7:43pm
Not dumb, but yes- the plunger assembly needs to be removed to reach it since it sits at the bottom of the compression chamber. 

You probably already know this, but just in case- you will need to make a spring fork tool to compress the spring so the spring anchor can be removed. Once the anchor is out, the plunger assembly is pulled out the back of the gun (stock, lever, and trigger removed of course).

I'll attach a photo showing the spring fork tool. The rods are 5/32" diameter x about 7" to 7.5" long. Many Ace hardware stores carry a K&S display that sells such rods, I think Home Depot does, too. These rods can be used in a piece of wood for the handle, just be sure the exposed rod length is about 6" to 6.5" and that they're put into holes deep enough to give adequate support- Iā€™d go at least 1ā€ deep. This tool is used to reach inside the gun, down to the end of the spring. The end of the spring is held in place by the spring anchor- which stands a little proud of the receiver just aft of the rear sight. When the tool is in position with a rod on either side of the spring at 3 and 9 o'clock, you press downwards enough the take the pressure off of the spring anchor, and then the anchor is pulled all the way out of the gun. The spring will not fly out of the back of the gun, so just release your hold on the tool and remove it after the anchor has been removed. 




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oldwizzer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldwizzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2020 at 2:49pm
Mark, Thanks! I have a  tool , appreciate your help. It'll be awhile before I get to it.


Ejwills. [Ed].
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