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Daisy 880 Compendium & Repair experiences

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Catwiesel View Drop Down
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    Posted: March-21-2009 at 1:06pm

Hello Daisy Powerline 880 owner and other DaisyTalk users,

I made a few experiences that I would like to share. Hopefully it will help other people. Unfortunately I can not post this somewhere else, so excuse me that I don't have any actual questions :)

I) Disclaimer

First, most of this information comes from numerous emails to and from Daisy support, the gunsmiths I was refered to by Daisy as well as my own experience and some other sources like some posts here.
Please note that I will give you this information to the best of my knowledge but I can not guarantee it will be 100% correct, nor that it will be suitable for your Daisy.
Also note that Airguns can be dangerous. Read and follow the Daisy safety guidelines. Do not take the gun apart if you are not confident you can assemble it correctly. Do not use faulty guns. And NEVER ever point your gun at something you do not want to destroy.
Also inform yourself about your local laws before using/modifying your airguns.  


II) General Information

There were several lines of Daisy Powerline 880 produced:
- unknown    : Metal receiver.   NO diamond painted on the plastic front stock under the barrel
- 1970 - 1972: Metal receiver.  Diamond painted on.
- 1972 - 1993: Metal receiver.  Diamond painted on.
- 1993 - now : Plastic receiver. Diamond painted on.

The first edition up until 1993 with the metal cast may have slight differences in the internal design, however I believe the parts are all compatible. The schematic from Daisy "880old +.pdf" is marked "metal receiver".
For these Daisy does not offer repairs nor do they have parts.

About the new edition that is still sold with the plasic cast I do not know much about. The schematic from Daisy "880.pdf" is marked "plastic receiver". Maybe some internal parts are compatible with the older ones, maybe not. But I think this is more or less a mute point anyway, not only should Daisy still have parts for those and do repairs, but the price is so low that many will just buy a new one for the same $$ that spare parts would cost.


III) Contact Information

- Daisy customer support (see www.daisy.com)

- Can help identifying when the gun was built (by LOT NR, should be on the barrel)
- Has the manual as PDF on the webpage
- Will send schematics if you ask for them
- Excellent support, quick response time, very helpfull.
- DOES NOT REPAIR OR HAVE PARTS FOR THE OLD (PRE 1993) MODEL(S) ANYMORE


- JG Airguns (see http://www.jgairguns.biz/ )

- Gun can be sent in and repaired.
- Does have virtually all parts for the Daisy 880 and many other airguns (you can browse for them in the webshop)
- also excellent, quick responding and very helpfull support
- orders can be sent outside the US
- accepts payment (not limited to) over CC and PayPal
- note: the webshop is not perfect. Many parts are listed heavier then they are, which may result in unneccesary shipping costs. This may be fixed by hand (Quote: "we reserve the right to adjust the shipping charges or method of shipment if the incorrect method of shipping is chosen, the amount is insufficient, or if another method of shipping is less expensive or more convenient.")
You will however at first have to pay what the webshop will tell you even if it is with the higher shipping cost and I do not know how you will get the money back if you payed more for shipping then neccesary.


- Larry Behling (Phoenix, New York)

- contact over email (rte6larry(at)alltel.net)
- also has spare parts
- apparently focuses on repairing/replacing parts/guns i.e. you need to send in your part/gun first
- does not accept paypal or CCs


IV) DE- and REASSAMBLING AND CARE

PHOTOS HERE: http://img18.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=zwischenablage01dgl.jpg and http://img5.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=zwischenablage22.jpg

Quite easy.
a) Lay the gun on its side so the barrel/muzzle is to your left and undo the first 2 screws from the LEFT


b) turn the gun around (keep the muzzle on your left) and again undo the first 2 screws from the left.


c) The plastic under the barrel should now be removable if you pull it toward the muzzle.

d) not neccesary but if you want you can pull the barrel to the left and remove it as well. Note that the real barrel is under there.


e) The (1st on your left) hinge of the pump lever can now be pulled out which will allow you to pull the piston out of the pumpcasing.


To reassmble just trace your steps backward.

f) Here is a picture of pump head assembly for your references. Excuse the bad picture quality. Note the foam piece is missing.

2) De/Reassmbly of the main part:
a) remove all the parts as described above under 1)a-e

b) Now remove all the remaining screws. Note nothing will jump in your face if you do.

c) You will (probably) need to apply some force to get one of the sides (let us start with the one with the plastic door) off the rest.

d) Now turn everything around and take the other side off.

e) you can get the cocking lever / magnetic tip out now (for example to remagnetize or clean or replace)

f) You should be able to pull the stock to the right and lay it to the side now.

g) You should be left with the barrel, trigger assemble and the case with the pump tube. in this case is a pin that if you remove it will let you remove the pump tube, trigger assembly and get to the chamber valve. BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE PUMP TUBE REMEMBER ITS ORIENTATION FOR LATER

h) if you removed the pump tube you can remove the chamber valve

i) if you removed the trigger assembly you can see a screw. this is optional: remove that screw to get the barrel free. under the barrel is some rubber and over it a metal cover keeping it in place.

j)now what is left is the trigger assembly - and the hardest part to put back together. there are two pins visible at the side. i recommend you do not pull them out, especially the hinge at the trigger itself. it will be a bitch to put back in! you can see the valve screwed in the assembly. if you want to replace that you may need to pull one of the pins, luckily you can leave the trigger hinge alone.

REMEMBER WHERE YOU TOOK SOMETHING AWAY.
To reassemble backtrace your steps. You will need to push some parts together and/or in the right direction so you can push the pin through the holes.

All seals need to be oiled before putting them back in. Only use the recommended oils (see under 5 for more info).

3) Airpressure problems / general overhaul:
With only airpressure problems or just to do a general overhaul following parts have been recommended to me by JG Airguns (Quote: "...will list all the part numbers of the parts I would replace if the gun was sent here for repair."):
- DAI880-133081 Elastomer buffer
- DAI880CS1 Chamber Seal (check valve)
- DAI880OA2 O-Ring (NOTE: needed 2x)
- DAI880FO Foam wiper
- DAI717-22 Valve
NOTE:
- The names are according to the JG Airgun webshop, NOT the Daisy schematic
- This list is for the older (pre 1993) model
- The items will cost ~27USD (03/2009) and allow, barely, for the cheaper but uninsured shipping.

4) Cleaning the inside of the barrel.
I wanted to buy me a cleaning rod with brushes when I found a very helpful webpage about this topic.
Link: www.nealjguns.com/pdfcatalog/AirGunCl.pdf

In short and my own words:
- get a common fishing line more than twice the length of the barrel and knot it into a loop
- feed the fishing line loop through the barrel (you may need some wire with a small hook at the end to pull it through)
- attach a string/fishing line longer than the barrel to the loop at the loading port.
- I then used cotton pads cut in pieces (and isopropyl alcohol). Put one in the loop at the loading port and pull at the muzzle at your loop until the cotton pad traveled all the way down and outside the barrel. Throw it away. Pull the loop back with the string/fishing line. Repeat until the pads exiting at the muzzle are clean.
- Pull a few dry ones through. Your done.
 
Notes: You may use other cleaning agents then isopropyl alcohol (MSI-301). I would have if I had any. Also try to lower the muzzle so that the excess cleaning agent will run down the barrel, not inside the gun.

5) Other things to consider.

- DO NOT USE WD40 INSIDE THIS (AND OTHER) AIR GUN(S)
- DO NOT USE AEROSOL LUBRICANT INSIDE THIS (AND OTHER) AIR GUN(S)
- DO NOT USE PETROLEUM BASED OILS/CLEANING AGENTS INSIDE THIS (AND OTHER) AIR GUN(S)
- DO NOT USE (WEAPONS) VASELIN INSIDE THIS (AND OTHER) AIR GUN(S)
- DO NOT USE BALISTOL (COMMON FIREARMS GUN OIL) INSIDE THIS (AND OTHER) AIR GUN(S)

- TSI-301 HAS BEEN RECOMMENDED (NealJGuns)
- CROSMAN PELLGUN OIL HAS BEEN RECOMMENDED (JG Airguns)
- Daisy recommends 10-, 20- or 30-weight non-detergent, automotive motor oil (see manual for more info)

- I USED TO USE Choji oil. This non-detergent oil is especially made for sword care. It smells like cloves (but please do not buy common clove oil, it is NOT the same, even if sometimes choij oil is refered to as clove oil). It doesnt burn, doesnt get bad or gunk up, prohibits oxidation and should not attack the seals. In my opinion it is safe, but use at your own risk. (EDIT: Now I am using Crosman Pellgun oil)

V) My Daisy Powerline 880

1) History:
It was build in 1971, old model, metal receiver, sold in Germany by Umarex. It has been in my family since then and I recently inherited it. Unfortunately my grandfather diddnt take good care of it so I have been working on getting information and getting it back to top performance, as well as a good look.

2) What was wrong with it:
- Very dirty, probably used wrong oil that gunked up and hasnt been used for years.
- Finnish was damaged, especially on the barrel where the information is stamped in.
- Missing the foam wiper on the piston that compresses the air when pumping
- Missing rearsight height adjuster
- Leaked air when pumped up through the barrel (loading port or when closed through the muzzle) = release valve damaged? NOTE: The 880 needs to be cocked to build up pressure. If it is not the air will rush out while pumping and no pressure is building up.

3) What has been done so far:
- Cleaning:
After deassemby of the pump mechanism I cleaned everything I could reach with isopropyl alcohol to remove oil, dirt and gunk.
The barrel has been cleaned as well (see above how, you do not need much to do it)

- Refinnish/Revarnish:
Note: to my knowledge the metal parts are not artificially oxidized (burnished?) to get the very dark blue (ALMOST black) finnish but are varnished.
- The pump mechanism was still deassembled and the barrel removed.
- I then removed all screws. Be carefull now that the gun doesnt fall apart completely, but it wont jump in your face either.
- First I took care of all places with sandpaper (pretty fine one) where the varnish came apart and rust was showing.
- Again everything was cleaned with isoporpyl alcohol.
- The stock was wrapped in newspaper and every big or small hole where aerosol varnish could enter the gun was either taped over with easy to remove papertape or stuffed with newspaper.
- I then applied aerosol varnish (black not dark blue), the "outer" barrel was sprayed seperately.
- After the varnish dried I reassembled the parts.

Looks very good, the stamped in info (model nr, lot nr, pat nrs etc) is very good readable. Only where the old varnish was not sprayed over can you see a small difference between black and blue.
I used car varnish, but feel free to use other kinds/colors if you want to.

- Cleaning 2
I just (was bored) disassembled the main body of the gun. It isnt really hard, nor is it hard to put back together. Just remember where this part came from and dont let it lie around as single parts until you forgot everything. It is hard though to describe it.
Think the gunk was bad before? This was worse. Worse like 10-20x worse. Cleaned with isoporpyl alcohol (and lots and lots of qtips).

- Missing Part: Backsight height adjuster
Daisy sent me the backsight height adjuster for free! Awesome! It arrived a few days later, made from plastic, not metal (what I would have loved even more).
I've asked my metal guy if he could rebuilt it but apparently it is too small and he doesn't have the machines for it.

- Refinnish/Revarnish 2
I deassembled the whole gun, cleaned every metal part with isopropyl alcohol, used fine sanding paper to remove the small imperfections from the 1st varnish and revarnished everything. Indeed very much easier when everything is disassembled.
I let it dry 24hrs, wrapped everything in newspaper and waited for the replacement parts before reassembling. Only do that if you are very confident not to get confused where the parts came from :)

- Spare parts (see above for a list)
Have been ordered from JG Airguns. They have been shipped, waiting for them to arrive...
And they did, today. Aprox 10 days after the order, 7 days after shipping and one day after revarnishing. Perfect timing.
Replaced the missing foam ring, replaced the valve and the seals. I could not get the old elastomer buffer out so I couldnt replace it. Luckily it isnt a big deal.
While I was at it, I remagnetized the magnetizing tip.
Gun in perfect working order now!


In short:
- it is cleaner now
- no more rust
- rear sight height adjuster replaced
- perfect working order now

4) What still is wrong with it:
- NOTHING! :D


5) The future:
I still might buy some (walnut tree) wood on eBay and try to replicate the really cheep looking plastic pieces with it. If I ever get started on that and finnish it I will make shure to document it and post pictures! :)
Unfortunately this is as of yet no very likely. First I need to figure out a way to get a metal connection between the wooden stock and the gun.
Making the connection from wood I would not feel confident that it will not break especially on sheer forces since the material would need to be quite thin.

Very well, I guess thats it for now. I hope this will help other peole with their Daisy 880. And I know there are better guns out there and the work or bucks invested might even be more than a new 880 is worth but this one got sentimental value for me (belonged to 2 people in my familiy who passed on.) Also note that even if that is the case I do not have the budget do get real expensive stock wood and/or let some professionel stock macker redo the parts. I couldnt even afford to send it to a repairshop. Besides, I'm learning new things and it is fun!

Hope that helps
Catwiesel


1st edit: added info, restructured the information and changed the subject (former " Powerline 880 - Repair experiences ")
2nd edit: added more info
3rd edit: added pictures
4th edit: added info, removed some, added more pictures.

I will add info/edit this post when I get new information concerning the wooden stock. But the rest is done 

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oldwizzer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldwizzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-21-2009 at 1:57pm

Nice write up.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Ejwills
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaisyBBgunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-21-2009 at 3:19pm
Wow.  I am very impressed that you took the time to share all of your experience with the Daisy Talk members.  Let us know how your project turns out!
daisybbgunner@aol.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Catwiesel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-21-2009 at 5:06pm

Well, the main reason is that I asked the Daisy and JG Airgun support so many questions and where they had next to nothing to gain they answered and kept answering. I hope my post will help a few people not to bug the support for the same answers again and safe the support a little time and hence, money.

So feel free to link this post to others coming in the future asking about the Daisy 880 and repair/spare parts for it (if of course my information applies to them)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Catwiesel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2009 at 3:34am
ADDED PICTURES
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldwizzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2009 at 7:24am

Nice Writeup!

Anyone who wants to try repairing their 880's will be glad you provided all that valuable information.Great job and well done.

Ejwills.

Ejwills
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willielumplump Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2009 at 11:53am
I am amazed at your ambitious effort to restore that 880 and I do understand the emotional attachement when considering just how much time and money you want to expend.  I hope you are cultivating a potential future recepient of the 880, not that I think you will expire any time soon! Thumbs Up
semper fi
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willielumplump Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2009 at 5:29pm

  Sometime after I read your posting, I went down to my "armory" and checked out my Limited Edition 20th Anneversary Model 880.  It has a diamond on the forearm, and the receiver is definately plastic.  Well, it LOOKSConfusedPLASTIC; however the item description on the auction page where I bought it described it as having a "metal receiver engraved with____".

I do not know the original year that the Model 880 made its debue but I am guessing it was 1972.  There is a website www.bbairguns.com that runs chronologies of Daisy products and the featured picture shows what is titled a 1983 year Powerline Model 880 but IT DOES NOT display a diamond.

Now what I really need to know is what is the real first year that the Model 880 was manufactured and marketedQuestion

Then I will know how old my Model 880 is.Confused

 

 

semper fi
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dan_house Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2009 at 9:43am

Hey Catwiesel

Mind if I use this format for my 105/RR writeup?

Like the flow.....

dr_subsonic's pneumatic research lab

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Catwiesel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2009 at 3:48pm

alright, been some time since I looked in here...

well, few months in and my 880 is still performing perfectly :)

alrighty...

willielumplump: I hope so too :)
and I can not really answer your question about the age of your 880. Like I wrote in the main post, from what I gather from daisy support, the drawings and numerous other sources the manufacturing dates/differences are as I wrote them out. No guarantee though.
Now, if you find your serial/lot number and ask daisy nicely, they should be able to tell you when it was manufactured.

dan_house: no, not at all. feel free to use my format or content for whatever purpose. this applies to everyone else of course...

cya
Catwiesel

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