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Daisy Model 26
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gkenny View Drop Down
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Points: 863 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gkenny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2021 at 1:46pm
Originally posted by cobalt327 cobalt327 wrote:

ATF stop-leak was formulated to soften and slightly swell rubber seals, and Tom Gaylord swears by it, so it might be worth a try. I'd imagine it might take soaking in a container of it for a fairly long tome to make much difference, given the thickness of the piston.

Thanks again cobalt, the gun is filled with ATF and muzzle down for a few days, I will let you know the results. Regards, gkenny.
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gkenny View Drop Down
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Originally posted by jackdog jackdog wrote:

Smile  Good one Mark!  The forearm thig-a-ma-gig thing with the gear on the end looks like the tool I use to replace screens on a screened door also!! LOL   Rick

BTW  this 26 was not a pleasure to disassemble!   I had my doubts about putting it back together... 
Good luck Ken with your project.   I also remember somewhere you might be able to swell the plunger back to a usable size using acetone , but I wouldn't bet or rely on my memory.  Anyone have any tips on restoring and swelling rubber out there???

Thank you, Jackdog. I have the gun filled with ATF and muzzle down to allow the ATF to work if it can. I will check it in a few days.
Even though this gun has more than 95% original finish and a perfect stock, I don't intend to do much more with it because of the two small holes someone drilled in the top of the receiver for a scope, the missing sight elevator, and how delicate the mechanism has proven. 
It might as well be in my collection as the only example of a model 26 I have ever owned.
gkenny.
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cobalt327 View Drop Down
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Points: 3045 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cobalt327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2021 at 1:33am
ATF stop-leak was formulated to soften and slightly swell rubber seals, and Tom Gaylord swears by it, so it might be worth a try. I'd imagine it might take soaking in a container of it for a fairly long tome to make much difference, given the thickness of the piston.
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jackdog View Drop Down
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Points: 398 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jackdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2021 at 1:00am
Smile  Good one Mark!  The forearm thig-a-ma-gig thing with the gear on the end looks like the tool I use to replace screens on a screened door also!! LOL   Rick

BTW  this 26 was not a pleasure to disassemble!   I had my doubts about putting it back together... 
Good luck Ken with your project.   I also remember somewhere you might be able to swell the plunger back to a usable size using acetone , but I wouldn't bet or rely on my memory.  Anyone have any tips on restoring and swelling rubber out there???
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cobalt327 View Drop Down
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Good thread, thanks Rick. I'll add the 26 diagram, it lacks some detail compared to the 572 drawing. The forearm return spring looks like it could be used to close a screen door!
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gkenny View Drop Down
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Originally posted by jackdog jackdog wrote:

Here is the Original manual from the 26. Actual manual is 7.5 inch by 11 inch unfolded ,Printed doubled sided on a single sheet of Newspaper type paper then... It was folded in quarters...  
Right click on the images below than select open in new tab.. then right click and select save image to your computer.. Than you can print or view.

Please note parts list differs from Cobalt's listing above since that was the model 572 parts diagram.
I do not know if there are any differences between the 26 and 572.  I am not an expert on these guns, and do not have any 572's to compare.   But I believe they were the same... 


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Regards, Rick



Thank you very much, Rick! This original manual is very helpful! I also appreciate your sharing your experience with these guns.
Regards gkenny.
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jackdog View Drop Down
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Points: 398 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jackdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2021 at 12:33am
Here is the Original manual from the 26. Actual manual is 7.5 inch by 11 inch unfolded ,Printed doubled sided on a single sheet of Newspaper type paper then... It was folded in quarters...  
Right click on the images below than select open in new tab.. then right click and select save image to your computer.. Than you can print or view.

Please note parts list differs from Cobalt's listing above since that was the model 572 parts diagram.
I do not know if there are any differences between the 26 and 572.  I am not an expert on these guns, and do not have any 572's to compare.   But I believe they were the same... 


Front


Back 


Regards, Rick
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jackdog View Drop Down
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I have two of these 26's.  One was new in the box another I bought at a farm sale about 20 years ago.
None of them shot the BB with any force.  In taking the farm sale one apart the abutment was in place and the plunger head looked good.  But not much compression was generated.  Cobalt is correct in assuming this has a tapered chamber like the 1894..  I assumed the plunger was compressed from years of sitting around in the fired position.   When I replaced the plunger head it worked much better.  But these guns are weak shooters so do not expect much.  They are also prone to plastic parts breaking like was previously noted.  The gear mech that is used to cock this is the main area where you will run into breakage problems. With mine the teeth have broken off the one gear mech and have made it unusable for me, with no parts in sight to fix these... Be very careful on cocking this gun to avoid plastic damage.  Just my experience with these.
I will post the original instruction manual scans for the 26 next .....
Regards, Rick
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gkenny View Drop Down
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Originally posted by cobalt327 cobalt327 wrote:

Now, I do not know squat about working on these guns first hand, but the performance you describe is typical of a gun whose abutment seal has come loose and is no longer sealing the abutment. 

Another possibility is, if these guns have a tapered compression chamber like the model 1894, it could be that the piston has hardened to the smaller end of the chamber causing a loss of power like seen when this happens to a model 1894. But that's a total guess on my part because I don't know whether the chamber is actually tapered or not. I hope others can give more insight to the problem.

Good luck!

Mark 

Thanks again Mark. Ken.
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cobalt327 View Drop Down
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Now, I do not know squat about working on these guns first hand, but the performance you describe is typical of a gun whose abutment seal has come loose and is no longer sealing the abutment. 

Another possibility is, if these guns have a tapered compression chamber like the model 1894, it could be that the piston has hardened to the smaller end of the chamber causing a loss of power like seen when this happens to a model 1894. But that's a total guess on my part because I don't know whether the chamber is actually tapered or not. I hope others can give more insight to the problem.

Good luck!

Mark 
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