Cause of 1894 right receiver damage? |
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cobalt327
Red Ryder Member Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 3140 |
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Posted: August-13-2022 at 12:43pm |
I am hoping to learn the cause of the infamous broken tang on the right receiver half of the 1894 that is seen so often. Also, is there a way to prevent it? I believe I asked Twocompassheads about this, but for the life of me I can't remember what was said!
The reason for my curiosity is, after 3-1/2 years of looking at it, I want to actually reseal my 1894 so I can finally enjoy shooting it. I have all the parts and even detailed instructions (thanks for that, DG!), but to be honest working on the 1894 intimidates me! The photos below show the area in question. |
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stevec
Red Ryder Member Joined: September-22-2003 Points: 1464 |
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Good question. I have worked on the 1894s years ago.They can really intimadate you. They are complicated but once you learn about them they are not to bad. The problem is you need to keep working on them as not to forget anything, a lot of parts and procedures to working on this rifle and they are not all exactly alike. Used to be a guy named Hugh that lived in the north west that was a wonder with these rifles. He knew it all but that was years ago. He taught me a lot
Stevec
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twocompassheads
Red Ryder Member Joined: March-21-2017 Location: Kingman, AZ Points: 368 |
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Mark, go for it. If you have an issue, I will help you. like Steve said there is a procedure to assembly that will make it go together smooth. The info I sent you should help.
The tangs are weak and the stock is pushed in-between them and it's a tight fit. also the hammer stop is mounted to the right receiver and that also rests in a pocket on the left receiver. So a lot of vibration is transferred to these parts on every shot. I have taken about 200 guns apart and have seen a lot of damage to all of the tangs and the hammer stops. Another thing is probably the way kids cocked the guns, they probably put the stock on the ground or by their foot and lifted the lever to cock it and put pressure on the stock that transferred to the tangs of the receivers. One other thing is firing the gun with the abutment seal stuck to the plunger seal, this creates a lot of vibration and a good jolt through the gun. It will also cause the spot welds on the barrel bushing to break and shove the bushing forward and damage the barrel with the feed block. Here's some pictures of the clearance and the way it's laid out on the receivers and the stock. I used two different colored receivers to show the way they sit and mount on the barrel and stock. |
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Keep On Plinking
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twocompassheads
Red Ryder Member Joined: March-21-2017 Location: Kingman, AZ Points: 368 |
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Here is a repair that I did on a 1961 receiver that had a broken tang. Grind the metal a little to get a rough surface to bond the epoxy to and I laid a piece of stainless wire in the corner and covered it with the epoxy. This is a good repair, but I wouldn't trust it on a gun you want to shoot a lot. The early 61 and 62 receivers were very weak and cracked all of the time, I'm not sure when exactly when they put on the heavier receivers. Just make sure there is clearance wear the epoxy goes so it won't rub on the barrel assembly.
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Keep On Plinking
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cobalt327
Red Ryder Member Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 3140 |
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Thank you for the excellent description and photos- it helps a lot! And for the encouragement. It really is high time I get it shooting!
On my gun, I used a layer of adhesive-backed rubber "anti-skid" material to soften the hard metal-to-metal hit of the hammer on the hammer stop you mentioned. If nothing else it should be quieter when I get to shoot it. Right now though, I'm not firing it with the abutment seal riding the air tube.
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twocompassheads
Red Ryder Member Joined: March-21-2017 Location: Kingman, AZ Points: 368 |
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Mark, good idea on the rubber material you used on the hammer stop, anything to stop the metal-to-metal slap. Could you post a picture of it and where you got the material and what is it originally used for. This would help in the search.
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Keep On Plinking
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cobalt327
Red Ryder Member Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 3140 |
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I'd be glad to. Photos will be coming.
I used an adhesive backed rubbery anti skid material, like would be used under a coaster or a figurine displayed on a glass surface, that sort of thing. It's relatively thin (~ 0.070") and I've seen it in cut-to-size sheets or 'dots' of various sizes. IIRC, I originally got it from Home Depot or possibly Ace to use on the back of a calculator. I applied it using tweezers. Then there's a material sold for foot care called 'mole skin'- it will work, but has a flesh tone color that would probably need to be dealt with. Thin self adhesive felt would also work.
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MarvMar
Red Ryder Member Joined: September-29-2014 Location: Ohio Points: 540 |
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Mark, Patiently waiting for your report on the 1894 rebuild. Going to share my experience with that model. Years ago, before ebay allowed the sale of BB guns, I was buying at auctions, garage sales, etc., some old 1894 parts guns, thinking I wold make a fortune rebuilding them and then selling. After the second or third tear down I started to realize that putting them back together was a different story. In the years that followed I parted out and sold probably 20 or more 1894s. Actually I have all the parts of my last one on ebay right now. Well, end of story...I have NEVER been able to reassemble and successfully restore a single one. After my graduate degrees from Stanford and my fellowships to Cornell, and 50 years of running my own businesses, I don't consider my self an idiot, but I still can't fix an 1894. GOOD LUCK !!!!
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Marv, NW OH
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stevec
Red Ryder Member Joined: September-22-2003 Points: 1464 |
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That was good Marv. Made me feel real good as I have repaired some in the past. Also destroyed some doing it lol
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cobalt327
Red Ryder Member Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 3140 |
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Yeah I expect to run into a snag or two, but fortunately I have you guys to ask for help!
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