Just wondering if anyone has a mod 130 |
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Robjoe0228
Newbie Joined: January-12-2019 Location: Alaska Points: 2 |
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Posted: January-12-2019 at 7:35am |
I purchased a 130 last spring, and I honestly didn't expect it to work but I thought the magazine feed was interesting never seen one before.
Cleaned it up and I love it. It doesn't throw the pellets out at ss high velocity as alot of other guns but it shoots consistent over and over. I actually removed the tube feed and mounted a cheep scope and at 40 feet from a prone position can consistently put one shot after another right on top of each other. I dispatched a large number of red squirrels with it some ss far as 20 yards a few even a little bit more and can say that I could count on one hand the shots I missed. I've owned quite a few air guns in my life but hands down this is my favorite if the trigger was better it would hands down be the best one I've had. Would love to hear from anyone else who has one or had one and what you think about the 130 |
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BurghDude
Red Ryder Member Joined: January-26-2016 Location: Pittsburgh PA Points: 400 |
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Hello and welcome!
As luck would have it, I came into one a couple of weeks ago. And I have to agree with you, I thought I'd like it, but I didn't think I'd love it! It is comfortable, easy to cock, powerful 'enough', surprisingly accurate, and for me the stock fits perfectly. Mine shoots 7.4 grain pellets at 550fps. The Daisy manual says the gun is supposed to get 565, so is working right. I tried one of the offset scope mounts, and that experiment went horribly for me. All the accuracy was gone. It is an interesting idea, though. I'm a fan of shooting open sights lately anyway, so I happily switched back to that. Yeah, love it. Well, everything but that trigger. I did figure out what the issue was, and came up with a fix to make it much smoother. While looking at the trigger of an Expomatic, I hit on an idea for how to make the trigger lighter too. They are both "intuitive tinkering hacks".. not like I'm a gunsmith or anything. But it didn't involve taking the trigger apart, polishing, reshaping etc. The mod is completely removable. If you want, I can send the info to you. My email is Ltssvn at gmail dot com , just drop me a note. If anyone else here is interested, I can document it here as well. Cheers! |
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Dannop2
Red Ryder Member Joined: March-27-2018 Location: Lincolnton GA Points: 233 |
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You are becoming the expert on these rifles V , and your mods are good and like you said - don't have to be permanent ,thanks for Sharing .
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Realshooter
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cobalt327
Red Ryder Member Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 3139 |
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For one, I'd enjoy hearing about making the trigger better. I don't own one but you never know what the future may bring...
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BurghDude
Red Ryder Member Joined: January-26-2016 Location: Pittsburgh PA Points: 400 |
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Dan, that's "resident expert" at best! And, I couldn't have done it without you, so thanks again! I wasn't planning on documenting this, so the best "before" picture I have is this one. Pardon the extra grease, I was going after one problem at a time ;) The muzzle end on all these pictures is left. The big rivet in the middle of the trigger is the junction between the trigger blade and the sear which runs inside the trigger blade's channel. As the trigger is pulled, the first stage is just the long tail (heel?) of the trigger coming into contact with the spring tube. Once contact is made (second stage), the heel of the trigger becomes the fulcrum point, so further movement causes the trigger to lift the sear. Barely visible in a little blob of grease, you can see a little white spot of bare metal on the spring tube where the heel makes contact. At first glance, I thought maybe they peened the tube there to make a little stronger, flatter surface for the heel to contact. Looking closer I realized that the shiny spot was where the heel had worn the paint off the spring tube! That area was comparatively rough, not smooth at all. So it stood to reason that as the trigger was pulled in the second stage, the heel was dragging through that rough mess, and that was the source of the roughness of the pull. If the trigger could contact something smooth instead, that should clean up the action of the trigger. < Standard disclaimer: don't mess with your trigger! If you do, and you mess it up, it is not my fault! This is intended as a discussion, not a "how to". That said, > Typical hack fashion, I looked around for whatever I had on hand that was thin, strong, and smooth. A stainless steel zip-tie I had left over from a hvac project caught my eye. It was .5mm thick, easy to cut with tin snips, and had a very smooth face, so it was perfect. I did some testing with pieces held in place with tape first, positioning the stainless pads where the heels of the trigger touched the tube, so it would touch the pads instead. The test was quite positive! So I cut narrow strips, and used good ole superglue to adhere the stainless pads to the spring tube. Getting the pads into place before the glue set proved to be challenging, and took a couple of tries. But, eventually, success! But the trigger was still quite heavy. The Expomatic is a very close relative of this gun, and Dan was nice enough to share a picture of its trigger. It was kind of like this, but there the addition of an adjustment screw. It was fixed to the spring tube with a bracket, and seemed to act by pushing down on the rear of the sear. That would have the effect of shortening the overlap between the sear and the piston cage. I reasoned if it was okay for the Expomatic, it would be okay for this gun too (leap of faith, I suppose). I fashioned another stainless strip to use as a little hammock to set between the sear and the spring tube, setting how far the sear could fall into the piston cage. This part took a fair amount of trial and error, making the hammock deeper and deeper until the trigger took a reasonable amount of pressure to fire. It was really easy to make the trigger a hair trigger, and I didn't want to do that! Eventually I had a piece that worked. I glued that in with a DAP Rapid Fuse, which it like slower setting superglue. It gave a little extra time to work the part into the position I wanted. The second picture shows the "after" trigger at rest. You can see the front of the trigger is higher than last time, that's the amount that the hammock is holding the sear higher. For the third picture I pushed the sear as open as I could, to show what that hammock and pads looks like. And that was that! As you pull the trigger, the impression was that you'd pass through first stage, hit the second, and with barely any movement, just building pressure, keep pulling till the gun goes off. My guess is it is around 3 pounds. That long, gritty trigger action became one of the best triggers I have. And there are some bonuses with doing things this way. First, it is completely removable. Both glues do come off the shot tube, with a little coaxing. Doing it again I'd use the DAP for both areas, as it acts a little more like silicon, not as flaky as regular superglue. Another bonus is that if I want to make the trigger lighter, I can just add some other material (like strips of tape) to the top of the hammock. For now I'm happy with the weight I have, especially because I'm frequently shooting with gloves on. I look forward to any comments, criticisms, and discussions! |
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cobalt327
Red Ryder Member Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 3139 |
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Very cool! And that it's removable means no hit to the collector value to boot. Well done!
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Airitis
Red Ryder Member Joined: October-06-2016 Location: PA Points: 1252 |
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WOW! Great info. I'm wanting to keep an eye out for one. Can't wait for flea market season!
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Air-It-Is
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Dannop2
Red Ryder Member Joined: March-27-2018 Location: Lincolnton GA Points: 233 |
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Glad to offer my small amount of help and you are really becoming very good with those series of rifles for sure , nice to have some simple lightweight easy to manage rifles to just grab and shoot all day if you want , when I think of shooting my .25 cal ...um I just keep thinking LOL , about 20 shots and I am done for about 6 months , I have 3 tins of pellets and they should last me a lifetime !! , you really can't beat the KISS principle . Nice job Vince
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Realshooter
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