Daisy model 97 |
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cobalt327
Red Ryder Member Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 3139 |
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It would be a very good idea to clean out the penetrating oil and rust as best as you can. I use 1 section from a shotgun cleaning rod with mops and brushes- the mop wetted with denatured alcohol or 92% isopropyl alcohol works well, rags and a piece of wire can do the same job. Once clean of oil the brushes can be used to scrub the ID of the shroud. Spinning it in a drill works well and is less work. You can use the alcohol here, too- it helps carry away the rust as the brush removes it from the metal. You can use the brush with the muzzle pointed down, wet the brush w/alky, and as you clean the shroud the dirty alky will flow out onto the newspaper or whatever you're working over. Lube the shot tube threads, obviously- you don't want to go through this again!!
The only part that would concern me is the barrel seal- penetrating oil can get behind it and remain there, hidden from direct contact with the cleaning you're doing. And removing the seal usually isn't advised unless you're going to replace it. So if not replacing, if you have the plunger assembly out of the gun clean and rinse out the compression chamber as best you can and follow up with a normal lube- a little oil on the wiper (if present) and a very light coat on the outer edge of the piston and a very light coat inside the compression chamber. The shroud and shot tube run clean and dry. Lube the tip of the lever and the lever pivot and a dab on the plunger sear and the notch in the trigger. It won't hurt to lube the trigger through screw. If the plunger ass'y is still in the gun, it is what it is- and will probably be okay, but I cannot guarantee how the seals will react to PB Blaster, etc. Not to put too fine of a point on it, but if you want to leave the plunger ass'y in the gun you can follow the procedure for oiling leather seals, except use alky instead of oil and that will flush most everything out of the compression chamber side of the gun. After flushing it, replace the shot tube and dry fire it until there's not a heavy spray coming from the shot tube, then clean the shot tube. Don't dry fire w/o the shot tube, else all the spray will end up back inside the barrel shroud, unless you plan to clean the shroud last. Link to leather seal oiling: http://forum.daisymuseum.com/rejuvenate-or-replace-leather-seals_topic8070.html
OIL AND ACCURACY Oil hurts accuracy of these smoothbore BB guns. That's the main reason for wanting the shroud to be free of oil because if it's oily the oil gets all over the BBs and then carried into the shot tube, along with all the grit and crud that's inside the shroud. Just not good. This is the piece that I finally removed. The rusty threads are easy to see. And after all the soaking, heating and et cetra, when the sob finally came out the threads were BONE DRY! smh It took a straight flute ez out being tapped into the broken tube end then turned w/a ratchet and extension with a socket that was made to fit the end of the ez out. Real pain in the rear!! |
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Ronk
Groupie Joined: September-03-2019 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 17 |
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Well I finally got the model 97 working. All the heating and beating and flushing never stopped that fine daisy rifle. Oh I forget about the bending. I put the front sight and loading tube strap between two pieces of wood and twisted the rifle until the seam lined back up at the loading hole. Seems to shoot OK . Accuracy doesn't seem to be a problem after shooting targets on my storage bin trap in the basement. Velocity might be a bit low. I'd like to thank 39hunter stevec airitis cobalt327 for all the information and help. Ronk
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BSAGuy
Red Ryder Member Joined: January-30-2019 Location: Central NC Points: 521 |
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Amazing photos, Cobalt and glad to hear that you got your 97 working again, Ronk.
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Be Prepared
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cobalt327
Red Ryder Member Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 3139 |
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I second that- good job!
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