Daisy blue paint substitute? |
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Gumslinger
Red Ryder Member Joined: March-20-2019 Location: North Florida Points: 400 |
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I
use a wire wheel on a pedestal-mounted bench grinder. This brass-looking wire
wheel (see pic) seems softer than regular wire wheels, and works quickly. I
don’t have guards on my wire wheel so I can work my pieces at any angle. I
know, I know--you’ll put your eye out…
but I do wear face and body protection. I don’t recommend this practice to
novices--I am just explaining how these rust buckets can be brought back to
life. Depending
upon the end result, I either paint or re-blue the items. My engraved No 25s
look better blued, but if they are too worn or rusty as to obliterate the
details, I just go ahead and spray paint them. After long curing periods I
reassemble & restore their function. Fun for me, and a gift to the future.
As I said before…save the Daisy's. |
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cobalt327
Red Ryder Member Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 3140 |
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The blued 25 looks especially good. What bluing did you use?
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BSAGuy
Red Ryder Member Joined: January-30-2019 Location: Central NC Points: 521 |
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Those look really nice, Jay. Do you do some buffing after the brass brushing? Same question as Cobalt on the bluing that you use, plus what paint do you use?
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Be Prepared
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Airitis
Red Ryder Member Joined: October-06-2016 Location: PA Points: 1252 |
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Hey Gumslinger,
I concur. I never use collectables for any of my projects. The way I figure it: The lower the value, the lower the guilt. Hehehe. |
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Air-It-Is
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Gumslinger
Red Ryder Member Joined: March-20-2019 Location: North Florida Points: 400 |
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I copied part of this over from another
post I made last year. (I wish we had a consolidated fix-it corner in this
forum). I have learned so much here,
but only in bits & pieces from different threads after long searches. The
bluing I use is generic Beechwood-Casey from Walmart. This version is Super blue. Two or three coats is a fine-looking
finish. Bluing is an interesting
exercise. Make sure you read up on it. Two caveats: Clean, clean, clean, and
heat, heat, heat. I use powder-free gloves (carefully donned to keep
fingerprints off the outside of the gloves), eye protection, and a heat
gun. Heat?
Too hot to handle works for me (I do a lot of juggling while coating the
parts). It really makes a difference. A
quick dip in baking-soda water to cool & neutralize the part, and then
buff, buff, buff to even out the result. The buffing solves a lot of what
initially looks like a disaster. To buff safely & quickly I use fine Bronze wool (from Amazon) When it comes out nice--wow! When it goes the
other way--take a long walk, reflect on life & smile. I’ll
get back to you on the painting aspect later today. |
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BSAGuy
Red Ryder Member Joined: January-30-2019 Location: Central NC Points: 521 |
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Thanks for that explanation, Jay. That's very helpful.
To your point on collecting repair, etc. information, I just copy it into a separate Word document on my own computer. That way, I have information in a single place for easy reference.
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Be Prepared
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Gumslinger
Red Ryder Member Joined: March-20-2019 Location: North Florida Points: 400 |
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I
have a large assortment of stainless & brass brushes from different
projects over the years. (I never use sandpaper). For interior cleaning (if
necessary) I use a suggestion from Cobalt: he uses a brass brush from a 12-gauge
shotgun cleaning kit. I actually use a 10-gauge brush. It fits more snugly
without distorting, and spun on a drill, actually polishes the barrel
interiors. I also use it to polish the compression chamber on the stock side of
the abutment. I have a face-forward brass brush to polish the abutment face to
better stick the abutment seal later. My
best hand-held interior brushes are brass on straight handles (like a toothbrush--but
hard to find as most have offset handles). All sizes of brass & stainless
brushes range from teeny air paint-gun cleaning equipment, up to test tube
cleaners, pipe cleaners, bottle cleaners, and the like. I even use different
caliber firearm-cleaning brushes (they make some neat stuff). Lately
I cannot find the Flat Onyx Black, so I have been simply using layers of Satin
Black. Me,
I cannot take a good picture of a ‘black’ paint job, but to my eye it looks
very appropriate on a BB gun. This
is hard paint, and ready for assembly. That said, it can take up to 30-days for
paint to cure. Which is why my shop looks like a wind-chime factory made up of
hanging Daisy parts. In the meantime I have plenty of other projects going on,
so ‘waiting’ is not in my vocabulary. It is more like: what, it’s been a month
already? Hope these suggestions can be of some use. |
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cobalt327
Red Ryder Member Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 3140 |
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Great info Jay- thank you!!!
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BSAGuy
Red Ryder Member Joined: January-30-2019 Location: Central NC Points: 521 |
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That is great info., Jay. Extremely helpful. Thanks for sharing your techniques.
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Be Prepared
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