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    Posted: October-21-2021 at 1:16pm
I just picked up an older Red Ryder for five bucks. Everything worked, and it was all rusty, but under the forearm, it was blued. It came from Plymouth, MI. It also has an iron lever and wood stock and no oil hole.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cobalt327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2021 at 6:17pm
Short version is it could have been made between 1940 and about 1946. Look at the front sight band- if it is spot welded in place, it's 1941-'46. If it's copper plated and peened in place, it's a first-year-made "copper band" 1940-'41 Red Ryder. If it's spot welded and the rear sight is not adjustable for elevation, it's a 1946.

Photos from Daisy King's excellent work:




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Airitis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2021 at 7:05pm
FIVE BUCKS!! You lucky dog!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 10thumbs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2021 at 7:55am
Well, the front sight is spot welded. The rear sight has an adjustment screw. So a '41-'46. I am surprised it still works. If a BB gun can get through its first 5-10 years, they might survive. They seem to live a hard life at first. Mine did!
  Thanks for the info. I think this one will be a keeper.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cobalt327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2021 at 12:23pm
Going by that info, we can pin it down to about 1942, right before Daisy stopped production because of WW2. It has the adjustable rear sight and cast iron lever same as the 1940-1941 "copper band" Red Ryder, but it came immediately after the use of copper was banned by the war department. So the bands on the 1942 guns are blued instead of copper plated.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 10thumbs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2021 at 1:50pm
A wealth of information here. Much appreciated!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 10thumbs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2021 at 1:33pm
I needed some parts, so I had to wait a while, but the plunger is really worn bad, and I'd like to replace it. I have a couple others with a similar (vertical) backplate, but they have ears sticking out. What do the ears do, and can I grind them off and make it work?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cobalt327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2021 at 1:37pm
Yes, you can remove the protrusions. Just make sure the lengths match, and they should, unless you have an oddball plunger tube, like from one of the Daisy lever action pellet guns they came out with for a few years. Those tubes are too short.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 10thumbs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2021 at 1:39pm
Thanks, cobalt. With one of your springs, I'm anxious to see what it will do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cobalt327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2021 at 9:43pm
Originally posted by 10thumbs 10thumbs wrote:

I needed some parts, so I had to wait a while, but the plunger is really worn bad, and I'd like to replace it. I have a couple others with a similar (vertical) backplate, but they have ears sticking out. What do the ears do, and can I grind them off and make it work?
I should have also mentioned that often, the original "no ears" plunger tube can be flipped 180 degrees. That puts the top at the bottom, and vice versa, bringing a new sear/trigger contact point into play.
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