Model 25 Trigger Install |
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AIRGUNNERMD
Red Ryder Member Joined: April-02-2010 Points: 112 |
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That's real neat information Freebird.
I have a junker model 25 that I'm fixing to take apart. I read a story once, written by a old country dude. He said that him and his friend used to take the 25's apart as kids, and stretch the heck out of the spring. How they did it, I don't know. He swore you could get as much power as you wanted by how far you stretched it. I seriously doubt that is true. I'm sure too much, and you can damage/break the spring, and/or hurt yourself trying. So, Can it be dangerous working on these guns? Would a couple of woodworking vises help to hold the parts? Could you guys elaborate on what tools you use, and any tips on working on them. I did order a Model 25 shop repair manual, which I will soon have. Thanks for any information.
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the fuse
Red Ryder Member Joined: January-20-2013 Location: NY Points: 1694 |
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Not sure about messing with the spring too much. These guns were designed to shoot at a certain FPS. More is not always better anyway. There is a reason that the D 499 Champion is designed to shoot at only 240 fps. That is the accuracy "sweet spot" for BB's. Your typical D 25...other than the very early models.....should top out at 325-350 fps or so...and that's pretty hot. Most of mine shoot around 300+ without replacing the mainspring. I dont bother with a spring depressor to break down my 25's. The power plant is easier to get at in a 25 than it is in the typical lever action BB guns. A padded vice is a help. I just pull the spring retainer out with a pair of plyers and finaggle it back in with a screw driver and plyers when done. Not really dangerous if you take care. The big springer pellet airguns are another matter all together. Good luck and have fun.
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All I'm for is the liberty of the individual.
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FREEBIRD
Red Ryder Member Joined: February-01-2013 Points: 372 |
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Take care working on them, there are a few sharp parts and when you start pushing, things slip. I made a spring tool out of a 1/8" wall 3/4" diameter pipe with a 3/8" channel cut in the center and polished up, this makes getting the spring in very easy. Put the plunger and pump lever together as an assembly, then insert it back into the barrel (you'll get the hang of it). I'm going to make a jig for it with clamps and such, to hold the thing to make it even easier. My older 1953 version has an 8" long spring in it, and fires pretty hard, probably 50 or so FPS faster than a new Chinese version. The new 25's Daisy puts out are very nice guns for the money, they are pretty accurate, very reliable and assemble pretty much the same as the old ones, so you can repair or re-build them yourself. :)
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AIRGUNNERMD
Red Ryder Member Joined: April-02-2010 Points: 112 |
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Thanks for the info guys.
I really appreciate it.
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RedRyderUSA
Red Ryder Member Joined: January-31-2010 Location: Texas Points: 276 |
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There are alot of sharp edges on model 25s so be careful. The ones with leather seals have a longer spring and the ones with neoprene are a bit shorter to compensate for the thick rubber piston and new air tube design. Neoprene seals came in 54 or 55. If you pull the pump toward the front one the gun while it's facing down you can get the tab out easily. The mod 25 manual is excellent, I have one.
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Be Independent!
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gpdadof8
Newbie Joined: July-06-2020 Points: 1 |
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Hi ... would you still happen to have the diagram and installation instructions for the Daisy 25 trigger replacement? Thanks ... Take Care ... Gene
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Gene
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39hunter
Red Ryder Member Joined: August-09-2012 Location: Texas Points: 448 |
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Gene, my email is on my profile.
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Pat
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jackdog
Red Ryder Member Joined: June-01-2016 Location: Cape may, NJ Points: 428 |
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Gene... copy of installation instructions from 25 service manual, with my notes... Before I mastered the Needle NOSE pliers install, I used the bread tie method, hope that helps. Rick |
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Aim Straight
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Gumslinger
Red Ryder Member Joined: March-20-2019 Location: North Florida Points: 400 |
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Amazing tips & clarity on a frustrating procedure. Thanks Rick!
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