No 25 leather re-seal question

In resealing the leather No 25s, I realized the plunger head / plunger assembly was different from the newer neoprene seals in a big way. This is better shown in the pictures. The main spring in the neoprene models is secured behind a plunger cross-pin, putting no pressure on the neoprene seal’s backup washer. But the leather-seal plunger assembly has the main spring pressing directly upon the leather seal’s backup washer. Why, I wondered, did the leather seal not get squashed after repeated firing cycles? These older springs are also mighty tight, even on an uncocked gun.

 It appears the Daisy engineers did some close tolerance work, tapering the air tube assembly’s shaft, and using a custom washer to slide up to, but not squash, the leather seal in front of it. This washer gets hammered hard over the years, (probably why they are so hard to remove sometimes) but it seems to have served its purpose.

 Has this ever been discussed before?

Gumslinger wrote: Has this ever been discussed before?

Jay , Thank you for posting this information. Great information and fantastic pics of your Leather Plunger head for the 25.  Analysis of the plunger head washer was very interesting.   I have two 1920 era 25's that both have the same problem.  The Air Tubes are broken off the plunger head.  (see pic).   I thought the plunger head was one piece with the leather washer.  For the love of Mike I have not been able to separate that washer from the plunger head and always assumed it was a permanent washer and not removable.  But now that I see your pictures it seems that they are just stuck on the cone shaped plunger head.  I will try to separate them just out of curiosity.  I Have been looking for new complete plungers for a while.  I hope I can find two.  Thanks. 

I had a really stuck washer this morning. Now--knowing they are hard to find--I wanted a safer way to remove them for reuse. I found a loose steel washer with a 5/8” ID hole. This is wide enough for the crimped head of the air tube to fit through, but not our stuck washer. I opened the jaws of my bench vise wide enough to clear the washer hole, and placed the plunger head, (air tube down) through the steel washer’s hole. A surprisingly light knock with the rubber hammer and it was off. Safer & easier!

Jay here is another question for you.  How does the air get into the air tube sticking out of the plunger head?  Since I do not have a whole plunger to look at, the air tube must have some sort of hole in it to allow the compressed air to go out the end of the tube...  have a pic of this?   Thanks as always.. Rick