Print Page | Close Window

Air tube soldering.

Printed From: Daisy Museum
Category: Daisy Airguns
Forum Name: Questions
Forum Description: To help users communicate about Daisy Aiguns
URL: http://forum.daisymuseum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=10189
Printed Date: June-25-2022 at 8:05pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Air tube soldering.
Posted By: gkenny
Subject: Air tube soldering.
Date Posted: April-27-2022 at 4:38pm
Hi,

I have recently purchased a really nice Daisy Buck Jones model 107 but with a broken air tube.

The air tube is much longer than the usual daisy air tube, about 4 1/2 inches long, and made of brass, otherwise, it is the same od and id of the others.

Has anyone here actually soldered any of the Daisy air tubes into the plunger heads?

Any suggestions on how to do it? Does it have to be silver soldered or is standard solder sufficiently strong enough to hold the air tube on the plunger head on a model 107?

Any help associated with this soldering job will be greatly appreciated! 

Stay safe, regards, gkenny.



Replies:
Posted By: undertaker
Date Posted: April-27-2022 at 7:38pm
I have done a few of them. You'll need a small butane torch to do it. A good flux and any solder will do fine. Ive used radiator solder as well as silver solder.


Posted By: gkenny
Date Posted: April-27-2022 at 10:41pm
  
Thank you, Undertaker, I really appreciate your quick response! 

You have given me the confidence to attempt this job! It will be my first!

I have a Dremel Versa Tip Torch kit. It includes a very nice Butane torch, some solder, and several different tips. I also have some Harris Stay-Clean flux and some other solder.

The air tube on my model 107 is brass. It was broken off at the small cut in front of the plunger head, where the air travels through when fired. The original tube was 4 5/8" long, 4mm OD, .75MM ID. I found a source, Amazon, for the air tube, I should have it late next week. 

The air tube fits inside a very tight 4MM hole, 5/16" deep in the front of the plunger head. I was able to remove the broken 5/16" piece with the Dremel torch. 

Do you 'tin' the end of the tube before placing it into the 5/16" deep hole at the end of the plunger head?

Is there a trick to get the air tube to stay perfectly centered and straight?

Thanks again for your help, regards, gkenny.


Posted By: undertaker
Date Posted: April-28-2022 at 12:02pm
I do tin the end of the brass air tube prior to inserting it into the base. I put flux inside the hole and heat it up. Re-heat the tube until the solder starts to flow and then jam it in the hole. heat the assembly together until until it looks straight. I just eyeball it from all directions. Any minor tweaking can be done after it cools off. The main thing is to make the new tube the exact length as the old one or else it will not feed correctly. Good luck.


Posted By: gkenny
Date Posted: April-28-2022 at 3:34pm
  



    Thanks again, undertaker. Very good directions which I will follow exactly when I receive my tubes.

    I may have a problem getting the exact length of the original tube because it was broken inside of the     plunger hole so I do not know how much it moved out before it broke. I lost that small piece.

    The air tube was between 4 1/2" and 4 5/8" long, Would you choose the larger or smaller possibility?

    Thanks again, regards, gkenny.

         


Posted By: undertaker
Date Posted: April-28-2022 at 7:56pm
Leave it long and you can file off the end of it if it doesn not feed a BB. Chances are, it'll work fine like it is.


Posted By: gkenny
Date Posted: April-28-2022 at 8:04pm
 
   Thank you Undertaker, you have been more than helpful! I will report back when the job is done!

   Regards, gkenny.


Posted By: Gumslinger
Date Posted: April-28-2022 at 9:21pm
Hi guys. I have an old post here regarding brass air tubes and the length (for the No. 25). I don't know how to post a link to that topic, but this will get you there:
Go to Search / Re-seal (keyword) then Gumslinger (member) choose 'Topic Subject'  and 'Any Date'.
This will land on "No. 25 leather reseal question". On page six of this post there is some info on brass air tubes. Good luck on your project.

There is a recent in-depth Youtube video on a Buck Jones restoration where the guy fashions a new air tube from stainless steel. It might provide some tips on length.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MCACfpVYX0" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MCACfpVYX0


Posted By: cobalt327
Date Posted: April-28-2022 at 10:54pm
Originally posted by Gumslinger Gumslinger wrote:

Hi guys. I have an old post here regarding brass air tubes and the length (for the No. 25). I don't know how to post a link to that topic, but this will get you there:
Go to Search / Re-seal (keyword) then Gumslinger (member) choose 'Topic Subject'  and 'Any Date'.
This will land on "No. 25 leather reseal question". On page six of this post there is some info on brass air tubes. Good luck on your project.

There is a recent in-depth Youtube video on a Buck Jones restoration where the guy fashions a new air tube from stainless steel. It might provide some tips on length.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MCACfpVYX0" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MCACfpVYX0
Here's a clickable link to the thread above:  http://forum.daisymuseum.com/no-25-leather-reseal-question_topic9556_page1&SID=327910749cfa5851c1e755a38ae459548842593.html" rel="nofollow -


Posted By: gkenny
Date Posted: April-29-2022 at 11:41am
   

    Gumslinger, that is the best restoration video that I have ever seen! It is also the most appropriate for     what I am trying to do! I can't thank you enough! I have saved it and will watch it over and over.

     Regards, gkenny. 

    

     


Posted By: gkenny
Date Posted: April-29-2022 at 11:44am
  
   Thank you, Cobalt327, that will make it quicker to access.

   Thanks for all of your previous help as well, regards, gkenny.


Posted By: undertaker
Date Posted: April-29-2022 at 12:21pm
That thread should be a sticky!


Posted By: undertaker
Date Posted: April-29-2022 at 12:49pm
That is a very good video with some great tips! FYI, on the early Buck Jones that use the cup seal, I use a Coleman Lattern primer cup seal. You might have to trim the edge a little but they work great and are cheap. Also, I use a 3/16" rod to determine the length of the air tube. Insert the rod into the shot tube to where it just clears the hole for the BB to enter and mark it with a Sharpie. Assemble the rifle and re insert the rod with the gun in the cocked position. The mark should be in tyhe same position relative to the end of the shot tube. This is the first thing I check on BB guns with feeding issues whether its not feeding or feeding more than 1 BB at a time.


Posted By: Gumslinger
Date Posted: April-29-2022 at 6:00pm
Glad to help. gkenny, where did you find your brass tube material? I would like to look it over. Undertaker comes up with the great tips again, thanks. Ditto to Cobalt for simplifying things. Jay


Posted By: restorology
Date Posted: May-02-2022 at 11:04am
Hey gkenny. That is my video. If you have any questions about anything you see in it, feel free to contact me at the e-mail address listed on my channel page under the About tab. Good luck with the repair! 

Matt


Posted By: undertaker
Date Posted: May-02-2022 at 9:59pm
Originally posted by restorology restorology wrote:

Hey gkenny. That is my video. If you have any questions about anything you see in it, feel free to contact me at the e-mail address listed on my channel page under the About tab. Good luck with the repair! 

Matt

Well done Matt! Love to see more like that one.


Posted By: restorology
Date Posted: May-02-2022 at 10:51pm
Originally posted by undertaker undertaker wrote:

Originally posted by restorology restorology wrote:

Hey gkenny. That is my video. If you have any questions about anything you see in it, feel free to contact me at the e-mail address listed on my channel page under the About tab. Good luck with the repair! 

Matt

Well done Matt! Love to see more like that one.

Thanks! I had never worked on one before this and really gained a respect for the engineering behind it. I'll absolutely tackle another if I find one. Right now I am working on an old National brand cap gun, one that used those paper rolls of caps. It's not as involved as an air gun but I cannot wait to smell those caps light off! That will bring back some memories. 


Posted By: gkenny
Date Posted: May-06-2022 at 3:29pm
 Hi Gumslinger, I found all sorts of metal tubing at Amazon. Most are from China and take forever to arrive but they have almost everything.


Sorry I was so late in letting back to you, regards, gkenny.


Posted By: gkenny
Date Posted: May-06-2022 at 3:32pm
 Thank you Matt, I do have some questions: I cannot solder my stainless steel tubing to the plunger head, the tubing just does not want to stick. I am awaiting the brass tubing from China.

Thanks again, great video and restoration!

Regards, gkenny. 


Posted By: gkenny
Date Posted: May-06-2022 at 5:13pm
 Hi Matt, I can't find your email address in your profile or your channel page, can you help me out here?

 Thank you very much, regards, gkenny.


Posted By: cobalt327
Date Posted: May-06-2022 at 8:30pm
Originally posted by gkenny gkenny wrote:

 Thank you Matt, I do have some questions: I cannot solder my stainless steel tubing to the plunger head, the tubing just does not want to stick. I am awaiting the brass tubing from China.

Thanks again, great video and restoration!

Regards, gkenny. 
I used to make slot car chassis from scratch, and it takes liquid acid flux to get solder to stick properly. Tin first, then the rest is relatively easy. In fact, after tinning with acid flux, I would often use rosin flux to make the union. Worked fine for me. Personally I believe the durability of steel over brass is worth the trouble, but if the gun won't get used often it may not matter as much.


Posted By: T.C.
Date Posted: May-07-2022 at 9:07am
Small world Mark I used to make and sell slot car drag car chassis, piano wire and brass tubing.
I used a product called Stay Brite , it's a silver bearing solder with really good flux.
Some welding shops carry it in a small kit also hobby shops if ya can find one of hose nowadays.
I still use it as my go to solder, I even soldered electrical stuff with it by using rosin flux.
It has the highest silver content of any soft solder but still has a melting point of around 400 degrees if I remember rite?
I used it to solder up one of my stainless barrels just the other day.
Terry


Posted By: restorology
Date Posted: May-10-2022 at 10:21pm
Originally posted by gkenny gkenny wrote:

 Hi Matt, I can't find your email address in your profile or your channel page, can you help me out here?

 Thank you very much, regards, gkenny.

Hey. Sorry I haven't checked this in a few days. My email is restorologymail@gmail.com. 


Posted By: restorology
Date Posted: May-10-2022 at 10:35pm
Originally posted by gkenny gkenny wrote:

 Thank you Matt, I do have some questions: I cannot solder my stainless steel tubing to the plunger head, the tubing just does not want to stick. I am awaiting the brass tubing from China.

Thanks again, great video and restoration!

Regards, gkenny. 

I used a silver solder made for metal working that I got at Home Depot but I just went to its website to copy the link to it and I don't see it listed. It must not be carried anymore and I cannot remember the brand but try a silver solder with flux and make sure that the surfaces are super clean. I might have even etched mine with a diluted acid first to clean off any impurities. My e-mail is restorologymail@gmail.com if you have any other questions. Good luck! 


Posted By: gkenny
Date Posted: May-12-2022 at 1:13pm
Thank you Matt, but when I try your e-mail address, it gets rejected for being invalid.




Posted By: gkenny
Date Posted: May-12-2022 at 1:16pm
Hi Matt, thanks for letting me have your e-mail address.

Your restoration of the Daisy Buck Jones model 107 was excellent! The best information I have ever seen!

I was successful in completing the addition of the air tube and leather seal because of your information in that restoration.

Even though I am 82 years old, I have never done any soldering before but your clear, precise directions and photos gave me the incentive to try it. I am a retired artist/inventor so I have never had the necessity to solder. I used the Harris Stay Bright kit shown on Amazon.

My gun is almost mint condition and worth the trouble to repair, but none of the known air gun repair people answered my request.

The gun is now finished but unfortunately I can’t test fire it because the gun pumps back but will not lock on the sear and so just stops until I let it spring back with the front grip.

Any suggestions as to what I am doing wrong? The trigger spring may have slipped, could that be it?

Any help here will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for sharing the best restoration video I have ever seen!

Stay safe, regards, Ken.


Posted By: undertaker
Date Posted: May-12-2022 at 2:44pm
Ken, hold the trigger forward as you pull back on the pump. If it catches, then you have a trigger spring issue.


Posted By: gkenny
Date Posted: May-12-2022 at 3:04pm
 Thank you, Undertaker, I will try that this afternoon, gkenny.


Posted By: twocompassheads
Date Posted: May-13-2022 at 4:26pm
He did a great job of restoring the Buck Jones.  A lot of time and effort went into it.

-------------
Ride and Have Fun


Posted By: cobalt327
Date Posted: May-14-2022 at 8:04am
Originally posted by T.C. T.C. wrote:

Small world Mark I used to make and sell slot car drag car chassis, piano wire and brass tubing.
I used a product called Stay Brite , it's a silver bearing solder with really good flux.
Some welding shops carry it in a small kit also hobby shops if ya can find one of hose nowadays.
I still use it as my go to solder, I even soldered electrical stuff with it by using rosin flux.
It has the highest silver content of any soft solder but still has a melting point of around 400 degrees if I remember rite?
I used it to solder up one of my stainless barrels just the other day.
Terry
I don't want to get too far afield here, but you probably recognize the motor below. I raced it in Group 7, aka "open class", using a spring steel chassis on a Blue King way back in the early '90s. But my main class was International 15. I did pretty well, was FL state points champ in '94. It's hard to believe that was almost 30 years ago!








Posted By: cobalt327
Date Posted: May-14-2022 at 8:09am
Originally posted by twocompassheads twocompassheads wrote:

He did a great job of restoring the Buck Jones.  A lot of time and effort went into it.
He really did! He mentioned yesterday that he got the trigger spring sorted out and it's shooting fine again!



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2015 Web Wiz Ltd. - http://www.webwiz.co.uk