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Daisy 880 Compendium & Repair experiences

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Topic: Daisy 880 Compendium & Repair experiences
Posted By: Catwiesel
Subject: Daisy 880 Compendium & Repair experiences
Date Posted: March-21-2009 at 1:06pm

Hello Daisy Powerline 880 owner and other DaisyTalk users,

I made a few experiences that I would like to share. Hopefully it will help other people. Unfortunately I can not post this somewhere else, so excuse me that I don't have any actual questions :)

I) Disclaimer

First, most of this information comes from numerous emails to and from Daisy support, the gunsmiths I was refered to by Daisy as well as my own experience and some other sources like some posts here.
Please note that I will give you this information to the best of my knowledge but I can not guarantee it will be 100% correct, nor that it will be suitable for your Daisy.
Also note that Airguns can be dangerous. Read and follow the Daisy safety guidelines. Do not take the gun apart if you are not confident you can assemble it correctly. Do not use faulty guns. And NEVER ever point your gun at something you do not want to destroy.
Also inform yourself about your local laws before using/modifying your airguns.  


II) General Information

There were several lines of Daisy Powerline 880 produced:
- unknown    : Metal receiver.   NO diamond painted on the plastic front stock under the barrel
- 1970 - 1972: Metal receiver.  Diamond painted on.
- 1972 - 1993: Metal receiver.  Diamond painted on.
- 1993 - now : Plastic receiver. Diamond painted on.

The first edition up until 1993 with the metal cast may have slight differences in the internal design, however I believe the parts are all compatible. The schematic from Daisy "880old +.pdf" is marked "metal receiver".
For these Daisy does not offer repairs nor do they have parts.

About the new edition that is still sold with the plasic cast I do not know much about. The schematic from Daisy "880.pdf" is marked "plastic receiver". Maybe some internal parts are compatible with the older ones, maybe not. But I think this is more or less a mute point anyway, not only should Daisy still have parts for those and do repairs, but the price is so low that many will just buy a new one for the same $$ that spare parts would cost.


III) Contact Information

- Daisy customer support (see http://www.daisy.com - www.daisy.com )

- Can help identifying when the gun was built (by LOT NR, should be on the barrel)
- Has the manual as PDF on the webpage
- Will send schematics if you ask for them
- Excellent support, quick response time, very helpfull.
- DOES NOT REPAIR OR HAVE PARTS FOR THE OLD (PRE 1993) MODEL(S) ANYMORE


- JG Airguns (see http://www.jgairguns.biz/ - http://www.jgairguns.biz/ )

- Gun can be sent in and repaired.
- Does have virtually all parts for the Daisy 880 and many other airguns (you can browse for them in the webshop)
- also excellent, quick responding and very helpfull support
- orders can be sent outside the US
- accepts payment (not limited to) over CC and PayPal
- note: the webshop is not perfect. Many parts are listed heavier then they are, which may result in unneccesary shipping costs. This may be fixed by hand (Quote: "we reserve the right to adjust the shipping charges or method of shipment if the incorrect method of shipping is chosen, the amount is insufficient, or if another method of shipping is less expensive or more convenient.")
You will however at first have to pay what the webshop will tell you even if it is with the higher shipping cost and I do not know how you will get the money back if you payed more for shipping then neccesary.


- Larry Behling (Phoenix, New York)

- contact over email (rte6larry(at)alltel.net)
- also has spare parts
- apparently focuses on repairing/replacing parts/guns i.e. you need to send in your part/gun first
- does not accept paypal or CCs


IV) DE- and REASSAMBLING AND CARE

PHOTOS HERE: http://img18.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=zwischenablage01dgl.jpg - http://img18.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=zwischenablage01dgl.jpg  and http://img5.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=zwischenablage22.jpg - http://img5.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=zwischenablage22.jpg

Quite easy.
a) Lay the gun on its side so the barrel/muzzle is to your left and undo the first 2 screws from the LEFT
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/5726/zwischenablage01dgl.jpg">

b) turn the gun around (keep the muzzle on your left) and again undo the first 2 screws from the left.
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/1091/zwischenablage02aqg.jpg">

c) The plastic under the barrel should now be removable if you pull it toward the muzzle.

d) not neccesary but if you want you can pull the barrel to the left and remove it as well. Note that the real barrel is under there.
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/1120/zwischenablage03p.jpg">

e) The (1st on your left) hinge of the pump lever can now be pulled out which will allow you to pull the piston out of the pumpcasing.
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3590/zwischenablage04z.jpg"> http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/5462/zwischenablage05.jpg">

To reassmble just trace your steps backward.

f) Here is a picture of pump head assembly for your references. Excuse the bad picture quality. Note the foam piece is missing.
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/4494/piston2m.jpg">

2) De/Reassmbly of the main part:
a) remove all the parts as described above under 1)a-e

b) Now remove all the remaining screws. Note nothing will jump in your face if you do.

c) You will (probably) need to apply some force to get one of the sides (let us start with the one with the plastic door) off the rest.
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/5995/zwischenablage06.jpg"> http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/254/zwischenablage07.jpg"> http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/1982/zwischenablage08.jpg">

d) Now turn everything around and take the other side off.
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/3962/zwischenablage09.jpg">

e) you can get the cocking lever / magnetic tip out now (for example to remagnetize or clean or replace)
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/1380/zwischenablage10.jpg">

f) You should be able to pull the stock to the right and lay it to the side now.
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/655/zwischenablage12.jpg">

g) You should be left with the barrel, trigger assemble and the case with the pump tube. in this case is a pin that if you remove it will let you remove the pump tube, trigger assembly and get to the chamber valve. BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE PUMP TUBE REMEMBER ITS ORIENTATION FOR LATER
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6243/zwischenablage13.jpg"> http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8361/zwischenablage14.jpg">

h) if you removed the pump tube you can remove the chamber valve
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/3360/zwischenablage15.jpg">

i) if you removed the trigger assembly you can see a screw. this is optional: remove that screw to get the barrel free. under the barrel is some rubber and over it a metal cover keeping it in place.
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9254/zwischenablage16.jpg">

j)now what is left is the trigger assembly - and the hardest part to put back together. there are two pins visible at the side. i recommend you do not pull them out, especially the hinge at the trigger itself. it will be a bitch to put back in! you can see the valve screwed in the assembly. if you want to replace that you may need to pull one of the pins, luckily you can leave the trigger hinge alone.
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2315/zwischenablage17.jpg"> http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/2136/zwischenablage18.jpg">

REMEMBER WHERE YOU TOOK SOMETHING AWAY.
To reassemble backtrace your steps. You will need to push some parts together and/or in the right direction so you can push the pin through the holes.

All seals need to be oiled before putting them back in. Only use the recommended oils (see under 5 for more info).

3) Airpressure problems / general overhaul:
With only airpressure problems or just to do a general overhaul following parts have been recommended to me by JG Airguns (Quote: "...will list all the part numbers of the parts I would replace if the gun was sent here for repair."):
- DAI880-133081 Elastomer buffer
- DAI880CS1 Chamber Seal (check valve)
- DAI880OA2 O-Ring (NOTE: needed 2x)
- DAI880FO Foam wiper
- DAI717-22 Valve
NOTE:
- The names are according to the JG Airgun webshop, NOT the Daisy schematic
- This list is for the older (pre 1993) model
- The items will cost ~27USD (03/2009) and allow, barely, for the cheaper but uninsured shipping.

4) Cleaning the inside of the barrel.
I wanted to buy me a cleaning rod with brushes when I found a very helpful webpage about this topic.
Link: http://www.nealjguns.com/pdfcatalog/AirGunCl.pdf - www.nealjguns.com/pdfcatalog/AirGunCl.pdf

In short and my own words:
- get a common fishing line more than twice the length of the barrel and knot it into a loop
- feed the fishing line loop through the barrel (you may need some wire with a small hook at the end to pull it through)
- attach a string/fishing line longer than the barrel to the loop at the loading port.
- I then used cotton pads cut in pieces (and isopropyl alcohol). Put one in the loop at the loading port and pull at the muzzle at your loop until the cotton pad traveled all the way down and outside the barrel. Throw it away. Pull the loop back with the string/fishing line. Repeat until the pads exiting at the muzzle are clean.
- Pull a few dry ones through. Your done.
 
Notes: You may use other cleaning agents then isopropyl alcohol (MSI-301). I would have if I had any. Also try to lower the muzzle so that the excess cleaning agent will run down the barrel, not inside the gun.

5) Other things to consider.

- DO NOT USE WD40 INSIDE THIS (AND OTHER) AIR GUN(S)
- DO NOT USE AEROSOL LUBRICANT INSIDE THIS (AND OTHER) AIR GUN(S)
- DO NOT USE PETROLEUM BASED OILS/CLEANING AGENTS INSIDE THIS (AND OTHER) AIR GUN(S)
- DO NOT USE (WEAPONS) VASELIN INSIDE THIS (AND OTHER) AIR GUN(S)
- DO NOT USE BALISTOL (COMMON FIREARMS GUN OIL) INSIDE THIS (AND OTHER) AIR GUN(S)

- TSI-301 HAS BEEN RECOMMENDED (NealJGuns)
- CROSMAN PELLGUN OIL HAS BEEN RECOMMENDED (JG Airguns)
- Daisy recommends 10-, 20- or 30-weight non-detergent, automotive motor oil (see manual for more info)

- I USED TO USE Choji oil. This non-detergent oil is especially made for sword care. It smells like cloves (but please do not buy common clove oil, it is NOT the same, even if sometimes choij oil is refered to as clove oil). It doesnt burn, doesnt get bad or gunk up, prohibits oxidation and should not attack the seals. In my opinion it is safe, but use at your own risk. (EDIT: Now I am using Crosman Pellgun oil)

V) My Daisy Powerline 880

1) History:
It was build in 1971, old model, metal receiver, sold in Germany by Umarex. It has been in my family since then and I recently inherited it. Unfortunately my grandfather diddnt take good care of it so I have been working on getting information and getting it back to top performance, as well as a good look.

2) What was wrong with it:
- Very dirty, probably used wrong oil that gunked up and hasnt been used for years.
- Finnish was damaged, especially on the barrel where the information is stamped in.
- Missing the foam wiper on the piston that compresses the air when pumping
- Missing rearsight height adjuster
- Leaked air when pumped up through the barrel (loading port or when closed through the muzzle) = release valve damaged? NOTE: The 880 needs to be cocked to build up pressure. If it is not the air will rush out while pumping and no pressure is building up.

3) What has been done so far:
- Cleaning:
After deassemby of the pump mechanism I cleaned everything I could reach with isopropyl alcohol to remove oil, dirt and gunk.
The barrel has been cleaned as well (see above how, you do not need much to do it)

- Refinnish/Revarnish:
Note: to my knowledge the metal parts are not artificially oxidized (burnished?) to get the very dark blue (ALMOST black) finnish but are varnished.
- The pump mechanism was still deassembled and the barrel removed.
- I then removed all screws. Be carefull now that the gun doesnt fall apart completely, but it wont jump in your face either.
- First I took care of all places with sandpaper (pretty fine one) where the varnish came apart and rust was showing.
- Again everything was cleaned with isoporpyl alcohol.
- The stock was wrapped in newspaper and every big or small hole where aerosol varnish could enter the gun was either taped over with easy to remove papertape or stuffed with newspaper.
- I then applied aerosol varnish (black not dark blue), the "outer" barrel was sprayed seperately.
- After the varnish dried I reassembled the parts.

Looks very good, the stamped in info (model nr, lot nr, pat nrs etc) is very good readable. Only where the old varnish was not sprayed over can you see a small difference between black and blue.
I used car varnish, but feel free to use other kinds/colors if you want to.

- Cleaning 2
I just (was bored) disassembled the main body of the gun. It isnt really hard, nor is it hard to put back together. Just remember where this part came from and dont let it lie around as single parts until you forgot everything. It is hard though to describe it.
Think the gunk was bad before? This was worse. Worse like 10-20x worse. Cleaned with isoporpyl alcohol (and lots and lots of qtips).

- Missing Part: Backsight height adjuster
Daisy sent me the backsight height adjuster for free! Awesome! It arrived a few days later, made from plastic, not metal (what I would have loved even more).
I've asked my metal guy if he could rebuilt it but apparently it is too small and he doesn't have the machines for it.

- Refinnish/Revarnish 2
I deassembled the whole gun, cleaned every metal part with isopropyl alcohol, used fine sanding paper to remove the small imperfections from the 1st varnish and revarnished everything. Indeed very much easier when everything is disassembled.
I let it dry 24hrs, wrapped everything in newspaper and waited for the replacement parts before reassembling. Only do that if you are very confident not to get confused where the parts came from :)

- Spare parts (see above for a list)
Have been ordered from JG Airguns. They have been shipped, waiting for them to arrive...
And they did, today. Aprox 10 days after the order, 7 days after shipping and one day after revarnishing. Perfect timing.
Replaced the missing foam ring, replaced the valve and the seals. I could not get the old elastomer buffer out so I couldnt replace it. Luckily it isnt a big deal.
While I was at it, I remagnetized the magnetizing tip.
Gun in perfect working order now!


In short:
- it is cleaner now
- no more rust
- rear sight height adjuster replaced
- perfect working order now

4) What still is wrong with it:
- NOTHING! :D


5) The future:
I still might buy some (walnut tree) wood on eBay and try to replicate the really cheep looking plastic pieces with it. If I ever get started on that and finnish it I will make shure to document it and post pictures! :)
Unfortunately this is as of yet no very likely. First I need to figure out a way to get a metal connection between the wooden stock and the gun.
Making the connection from wood I would not feel confident that it will not break especially on sheer forces since the material would need to be quite thin.

Very well, I guess thats it for now. I hope this will help other peole with their Daisy 880. And I know there are better guns out there and the work or bucks invested might even be more than a new 880 is worth but this one got sentimental value for me (belonged to 2 people in my familiy who passed on.) Also note that even if that is the case I do not have the budget do get real expensive stock wood and/or let some professionel stock macker redo the parts. I couldnt even afford to send it to a repairshop. Besides, I'm learning new things and it is fun!

Hope that helps
Catwiesel


1st edit: added info, restructured the information and changed the subject (former " Powerline 880 - Repair experiences ")
2nd edit: added more info
3rd edit: added pictures
4th edit: added info, removed some, added more pictures.

I will add info/edit this post when I get new information concerning the wooden stock. But the rest is done 




Replies:
Posted By: oldwizzer
Date Posted: March-21-2009 at 1:57pm

Nice write up.

Keep us posted on your progress.



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Ejwills


Posted By: DaisyBBgunner
Date Posted: March-21-2009 at 3:19pm
Wow.  I am very impressed that you took the time to share all of your experience with the Daisy Talk members.  Let us know how your project turns out!

-------------
Gary Garber
daisybbgunner@aol.com



Posted By: Catwiesel
Date Posted: March-21-2009 at 5:06pm

Well, the main reason is that I asked the Daisy and JG Airgun support so many questions and where they had next to nothing to gain they answered and kept answering. I hope my post will help a few people not to bug the support for the same answers again and safe the support a little time and hence, money.

So feel free to link this post to others coming in the future asking about the Daisy 880 and repair/spare parts for it (if of course my information applies to them)



Posted By: Catwiesel
Date Posted: April-01-2009 at 3:34am
ADDED PICTURES


Posted By: oldwizzer
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 7:24am

Nice Writeup!

Anyone who wants to try repairing their 880's will be glad you provided all that valuable information.Great job and well done.

Ejwills.



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Ejwills


Posted By: willielumplump
Date Posted: May-22-2009 at 11:53am
I am amazed at your ambitious effort to restore that 880 and I do understand the emotional attachement when considering just how much time and money you want to expend.  I hope you are cultivating a potential future recepient of the 880, not that I think you will expire any time soon! Thumbs Up

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Semper Fi


Posted By: willielumplump
Date Posted: May-22-2009 at 5:29pm

  Sometime after I read your posting, I went down to my "armory" and checked out my Limited Edition 20th Anneversary Model 880.  It has a diamond on the forearm, and the receiver is definately plastic.  Well, it LOOKSConfusedPLASTIC; however the item description on the auction page where I bought it described it as having a "metal receiver engraved with____".

I do not know the original year that the Model 880 made its debue but I am guessing it was 1972.  There is a website http://www.bbairguns.com - www.bbairguns.com that runs chronologies of Daisy products and the featured picture shows what is titled a 1983 year Powerline Model 880 but IT DOES NOT display a diamond.

Now what I really need to know is what is the real first year that the Model 880 was manufactured and marketedQuestion

Then I will know how old my Model 880 is.Confused

 

 



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Semper Fi


Posted By: dan_house
Date Posted: May-26-2009 at 9:43am

Hey Catwiesel

Mind if I use this format for my 105/RR writeup?

Like the flow.....



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dr_subsonic's pneumatic research lab

The lunatic fringe of American Airgunning


Posted By: Catwiesel
Date Posted: June-21-2009 at 3:48pm

alright, been some time since I looked in here...

well, few months in and my 880 is still performing perfectly :)

alrighty...

willielumplump: I hope so too :)
and I can not really answer your question about the age of your 880. Like I wrote in the main post, from what I gather from daisy support, the drawings and numerous other sources the manufacturing dates/differences are as I wrote them out. No guarantee though.
Now, if you find your serial/lot number and ask daisy nicely, they should be able to tell you when it was manufactured.

dan_house: no, not at all. feel free to use my format or content for whatever purpose. this applies to everyone else of course...

cya
Catwiesel



Posted By: jdavis
Date Posted: August-05-2009 at 3:13pm
I took mine apart to reseal, and pulled both pins on the trigger assy.  Before your pics it was a bitch trying to figure out where the small clip thing sits on top of the assy.  Thanks!!  I to am contemplating a wooden stock.  Going to take all the measurements and cut one out of some maple.  Probably take some time, but what they hey...  See what happens. 

-------------
Kill Dem Hogs


Posted By: santos
Date Posted: August-11-2009 at 12:51pm
You can get a wood stock from Daisy.  They have wood stocks for the Daisy 22sg which is basically an 880.  It is a little different but it is wood. See it here:   http://www.daisy.com/shopping/customer/product.php?productid=16146&cat=260&page=1


Posted By: chappyman66
Date Posted: September-27-2009 at 4:51am
First of all, many and huge thanks to catwiesel for posting his instructions and photos here.  They have been instrumental in the rebuild of my Model 917.   It's been a trusty rabbit gun for years, but recently lost the ability to hold pressure so I was disappointed.   I also have an 880 that belonged to my brother and was passed on to my sons for their learning and I wanted to rebuild both.
 
The 917 was straightforward and now is functional again, thanks to parts from JG Airguns.
 
The 880 is another matter.   I rebuilt it the same way, but I am getting no pressure under pumping.  It sounds like the air is bleeding out in the area of the seal between the pump tube and the body.
A few notes before I go further:
I did not use the elastomer buffers in either gun.   The new ones are smaller in diameter and much taller (thicker?) than the originals, enough so that I could not compress them to refit the retaining pin.  I reused the originals in both cases after cleaning them.
When the 880 is reassembled, the pump head pulls a vacuum in the pump tube as it's withdrawn (I can feel it wanting to suck back into the tube) which I think means I reassembled something backwards.  I was very careful to follow the pictures and instructions though, so I am not sure what that would be.
It did seem like one of the o rings was slightly larger than the others.   Is is possible that this is not seating on the face of the body and leaking?
 
Questions:
Do I need to grind the buffers down a bit to help them fit?   Or do I need to compress them between the plates so they take on the form and dimensions of the tube and still allow space for the foam wiper and roll pin insertion?
Does anyone have any wisdom about common assembly errors that result in air blow-by in the pump tube or body while pulling a vacuum when you remove the pump assembly?
How about slightly stretching the spring to increase the tension and improve the seal?
 
Thanks for any help.
 


Posted By: Desertdweller
Date Posted: December-13-2009 at 8:54am
Great illustrated posting there!  I recently rebuilt one of my 880's with parts ordered from Daisy.
I have two 880's, one built in this country, the other, later, from China.  The US-made gun has a fiber-optic front sight, the other a plain blade.  The latter has extra screws securing the stock, a needed improvement.  Both have brown plastic stocks, the Chinese a little darker.
The diamonds on the forestocks appear to be stamped on, and the paint soon wore off.  I repainted my diamonds with white enamel, with a clear acrylic overcoat.  They are durable now!


Posted By: FATAROX
Date Posted: August-16-2010 at 10:00am
My grandfather had an 880 with a metal receiver and no diamond painted on the forearm. It would not hold air and he gave it to me. I followed the instructions on your post, ordered parts from JG Airguns, and repaired it. Now it holds air perfectly, but when I started shooting it, the plastic part that makes up the front sight at the end of the outer barrel cracked and came out. It also holds the real barrel in. Now I have no front sight and whenever I do a shot with over four pumps, the real barrel slides out. I was wondering if there were any replacement parts for that particular piece or if I will have to replace the  whole outer barrel.


Posted By: Alwaystraining
Date Posted: October-15-2011 at 4:42am
I have an 880, metal reciever, 20th aniversery, from early 90's

Felt wiper disintegrated, It would only hold about 1 pump worth of pressure, and the inner barrel would slide out when fired. 

Bought 880 reseal kit for $26.75 + $6.00 shipping.
http://www.bryanandac.com/" rel="nofollow - http://www.bryanandac.com/

I don't know what I need, I couldn't tell where the exact problem is.  It seems like it didn't transfer pressure from the cylinder at the end of the pump stroke.

Also, My barrel just seems to nestle in to the "valve assembly."  I don't know what is supposed to keep the barrel attached, also there is just a metal to metal connection, no seal in there, which doesn't look much like the original posters pictures

The kit had No instructions of course, and I can't find anyone who has documented the installation.  I guess this thread is it.

I took good notes and drew diagrams when disassembling which enabled me to reassemble it without any problem.  I gently hammered the barrel back into the valve assembly which seems to have kept it from coming out.  I replaced all the seals and other pieced of the kit and the gun seems to be functioning well now.

One note of interest is that the first kit I got was for the Metal Receiver variant...because my reciever is metal...however, that kit did not work for me.  I sent pictures of my 880's innards to the kit's supplier and they informed me that I needed the kit for the plastic version of the gun...Well I don't know if I have a rare 880, or the guy who sells the kit is wrong (I doubt that) but the Plastic kit is what I needed for my metal 880.  

I have heard other people say that their "20th aniversery 880's" are plastic recievered...not mine, could be mine is worth something...I doubt it.



Posted By: gumboguy
Date Posted: April-01-2012 at 4:34pm
Thanks for posting this. You have done a great job with your rifle.

I have an 822 from the late 70's. When i pull the trigger, I hear air slipping out slowly before its supposed too.

Whats the deal with the little nylon or rubber bushing piece between the barrel and valve assembly? Mine is split in two. Do you know what the part number is? What is it called? Is it critical? Is this where I am loosing air when when I pull the trigger? Or is the head of my air valve gone bad over the years? I see you have a nice close up picture.

Hopefully you may be of some help. I sent a letter to jgairguns and they never got back to me.

Thanks!






Posted By: Trigger-Happy
Date Posted: May-24-2012 at 2:08am
Great posting!  Clap
BTW, for anyone needing to contact Larry Behling for parts, his current email is: rte6larry(at)windstream(dot)net

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Where ever you go, there you are!


Posted By: implied
Date Posted: February-05-2013 at 1:11am

Hi

I am new to this forum. I have the 70’s version of the 880 from when I was much much much younger LOL. Anyway it stopped holding air back then and it’s really a wonder my dad still had it around but I decided to repair it.

I sent off for a kit to repair and have already replaced the main o-rings and such. It holds air but has a small leak at the valve cap assembly so I replaced 1 smaller o-ring inside (btw: mine was completely round without the nut like edges). The instructions I got with the kit are not the best as I’m sure you are familiar with, but it does say 2 small o-rings go inside the valve cap but am un-sure of what to do next. It does still have a small leak after replacing the larger of the 2 smallest o-rings but the last o-ring to install is super small but am unable to locate where to replace it.
 

I kind of have an Idea where it may go.

On the valve cap is a stem that works with the trigger, does anyone know if I am supposed to take the round clip off of the stem and disassemble the valve cap and place the very very small o-ring inside?

I wouldn’t hesitate to remove it but I’m concerned about damaging the clip on the stem and if the o-ring doesn’t go inside I don’t want to take it apart and chance breaking the clip.



Posted By: the fuse
Date Posted: February-06-2013 at 6:32pm
Hi,

There is a small oring that seals the valve stem and you will have to remove that E clip to get to it. If you are careful it can be done. Don't lose it!! 

Stuart


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All I'm for is the liberty of the individual.


Posted By: the fuse
Date Posted: February-08-2013 at 3:42pm
Sounds to me as if that larger O ring may be the problem. You should be pulling a vacuum as you pull out the plunger head. If it's leaking in front of the valve it's probably probably the Oring on the chamber valve. That thing with an oring on one end, a black rubber cup on the other and a big spring in between. It acts like a check valve. If that oring is not right it will leak as you describe. Maybe someone put a 114 in where a 113 oring belonged. I'm not actually sure what the size is!! I buy orings in all sizes likely to be found in 95% of all airguns. I match them up as I go. Don't fret about the buffers. Unless they are damaged, don't touch them at all. Here's where I get orings. They sell in quantities as small as 1 and you'll get then in 1 week of ordering.  :) Stuart

www.oringsusa.com


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All I'm for is the liberty of the individual.


Posted By: Breck
Date Posted: April-14-2013 at 1:46pm
mailto:%20" rel="nofollow - to the fuse   I have Daisy 880 BB or 177     Pellet                      ROGERS ARKANSAS USA    No Dimomd, I need Bolt with or without assembly & rylon saddle seal for rifle tube, please advise.     Berck      

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Posted By: Breck
Date Posted: April-14-2013 at 10:56pm
I ordered bolt & assembly from jeffers today, not able to get any info on nylon seal between barrel tube & action. Is this part availby? Thanks Breck

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Posted By: Breck
Date Posted: April-14-2013 at 11:12pm
Correction ordered BBgun parts from JG Airguns, horse wormer from jeffers

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Posted By: Breck
Date Posted: April-17-2013 at 8:37am
Im thinking old inertube to cut a peace to make the unavable part to seal barrel tube to action. Anyone have info on this daisy 880 metal no diamond.

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Posted By: Breck
Date Posted: April-17-2013 at 8:47am
Is the seal from barrel tube to action on a no diamond Daisy 880 a no talk subject? Breck

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Posted By: gedfinn
Date Posted: June-14-2014 at 5:54am
I know its an old post, But it was brought to my attention by a Google search,
I have recently bought a Daisy 880 , All metal & Wood with Umarex cast in the receiver , Sounds like the German made model.

I am resealing it at the moment , & a power upgrade,
It has a rifled barrel & German writing on the pump tube ( Oil here Etc )
Its in very good condition,
On the top of the barrel housing it say,s Daisy 880, Rogers USA ,
Lot number J206192

Any info would be a great help Thanks, Ged.

A couple of Pics,
http://s101.photobucket.com/user/gedfinn/media/latestairgunpics383_zps38c98844.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s101.photobucket.com/user/gedfinn/media/latestairgunpics390_zps537b16e3.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s101.photobucket.com/user/gedfinn/media/latestairgunpics396_zps2cc2a22d.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: oldwizzer
Date Posted: June-14-2014 at 10:17am
Ged, I'm not aware of any Daisy model 800's made in Germany. I would think it was probably made as an export model . There are a number of members on the forum who may shed some more light on this.
If you post in the future it would be better to just start a new post rather then adding to an old post.
PS: Nice pictures.
 
Ejwills  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


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Posted By: gedfinn
Date Posted: June-14-2014 at 1:25pm
Hiya mate & Thanks for the reply ,
The reason I mentioned the German model was google picked up this thread from an old post ,
He stated the 880 was a german ( Umarex ) Model , Dated 1970-71
This predates any other 880 I can find,
As we all know, Many manufacturers rebranded others guns ,

The thread is here , ( Nearly at the bottom of the page )
http://forum.daisymuseum.com/daisy-880-compendium-repair-experiences_topic3519.html?KW=daisy+880" rel="nofollow - http://forum.daisymuseum.com/daisy-880-compendium-repair-experiences_topic3519.html?KW=daisy+880

I will in fact start a new thread next time, Thanks for having me on the forum ,
I have many pump ups, Bhaco,Setra, Daisy 126 ( Its called a Supermatch over here, )
Innovas, Aces,
Ged.


Posted By: Kzz1kaw
Date Posted: January-06-2017 at 8:48am
Hi all was reading about the daisy 880. I am 55 and still have my 880 my father bought me as a birthday gift as a kid back in the early 70's well I'm surprised that I manage to kept it all these years. Raising a family military job and now retirement. Anyways a couple years ago was in chinamart sporting section I see a daisy 880.. pickup the box looking it over and noticed the stock had 2 screws and plastic unlike my metal 880 with one screw. That started my curiosity when I got home. Pulled out of my closet my old metal 880 looking at it remembering the good times I had with the gun. I tried to pump the gun but of course it didn't pump up. I called daisy for a rebuild kit but sadly daisy told me the old metal receivers they don't have parts only the new style plastic receiver with the two screws. Daisy gave me a phone number and that was jg guns that would have a rebuild kit. So a phone call I order parts. I took the gun apart. While waiting for parts I decided to buy the new daisy from chinamart. I want to know besides the the two screw receiver daisy said the internals will not work on the metal 880. Curiously got the best of me. Actually the rifle is surprisingly accurate at 15 yards the length of my basement had a 22 rimfire trap took a blank paper an used a black sharpie size of about a quarter. Had some crosman pellets and shot 15shots first 5 was to adjust elevation. Ten pumps put 10 rounds in the black circle size of a nickel. I'm sure it would have done better with a scope different pellets bench rest. My old daisy never shot that good. But I do remember I shot mostly B.B.'s not so much pellets. After shooting the new daisy I tore it apart to see what the internal differences were. One for sure the new barrel is one piece with the shot tube (barrel) what daisy calls it. The main difference between the two old one barrel separate from valve and is a smooth bore new one piece and barrel is rifled. That explains the accuracy. The one piece valve and barrel will work in the metal 880 just take a dremel tool and some grinding I was able to retrofit the new valve. I kept the old new parts called daisy told them the new valve will work in the metal receiver with a little grinding. I ordered a new one piece valve and shot tube for the new 880 that was a donor gun. Now I have two 880 one in plastic and one in metal. Both are very accurate with a scope shooting jsb 10.34 out to 30 yards shooting little green army men lol. Hope this help out those of you with the metal 880. Ken


Posted By: the fuse
Date Posted: January-06-2017 at 5:54pm
Thank you Ken. That is a help to me. I like the old 880's but the valve is different on the insides as well as the seperate barrel difference. That means there are no parts to rebuild the older 880's if you have a problem bigger than a couple seals. Your frankengunning solves that problem. Glad you did it and posted here. Nice story as well.Smile

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All I'm for is the liberty of the individual.


Posted By: pmo
Date Posted: January-07-2017 at 12:10am
 Members of the GTA AIRGUN forum have successfully replaced old parts from old 880`s with metal receivers with new internal barrels and valves from the new Chinese 880 guns...PHIL


Posted By: the fuse
Date Posted: January-08-2017 at 3:47pm
I can only say that I had an early 880 that would not accept a modern valve stem. I switched out the entire valve/barrel assembly and that fit and worked fine. That may be what they mean. The early valves/valve stems are not quite the same as the new valves. 

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All I'm for is the liberty of the individual.


Posted By: Kzz1kaw
Date Posted: January-11-2017 at 5:11am
Originally posted by the fuse the fuse wrote:

Thank you Ken. That is a help to me. I like the old 880's but the valve is different on the insides as well as the seperate barrel difference. That means there are no parts to rebuild the older 880's if you have a problem bigger than a couple seals. Your frankengunning solves that problem. Glad you did it and posted here. Nice story as well.Smile


Your welcome. Just passing info on what I did to keep my metal 880 going again. I called daisy and told them what I did and it's like it went in one ear and out. Instead of sending us to vendors for old outdated parts and the barrels being smootbore☹️ What daisy should be saying that the metal 880 will except the one piece valve and shot tube with a little dremel work or you can still rebuild the older ones with the old new parts. No thanks I'll use the new valve and shot tube with rifles barrel😎


Posted By: Kzz1kaw
Date Posted: January-11-2017 at 5:15am
Originally posted by Kzz1kaw Kzz1kaw wrote:

Originally posted by the fuse the fuse wrote:

Thank you Ken. That is a help to me. I like the old 880's but the valve is different on the insides as well as the seperate barrel difference. That means there are no parts to rebuild the older 880's if you have a problem bigger than a couple seals. Your frankengunning solves that problem. Glad you did it and posted here. Nice story as well.Smile


Your welcome. Just passing info on what I did to keep my metal 880 going again. I called daisy and told them what I did and it's like it went in one ear and out. Instead of sending us to vendors for old outdated parts and the barrels being smootbore☹️ What daisy should be saying that the metal 880 will except the one piece valve and shot tube with a little dremel work or you can still rebuild the older ones with the old new parts. No thanks I'll use the new valve and shot tube with rifles barrel😎


Forgot to mention you will need a new bolt with the one piece valve and shot tube 👍🏾



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