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stock fitment/cross refererence

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Category: Daisy Airguns
Forum Name: Questions
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URL: http://forum.daisymuseum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9875
Printed Date: April-15-2021 at 3:38am
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Topic: stock fitment/cross refererence
Posted By: 7Shoot
Subject: stock fitment/cross refererence
Date Posted: February-18-2021 at 6:37pm
Has anyone developed a cross reference for stock fitment?  Essentially I have a Model 94 (NY manufacture) and looking for a replacement stock, cocking lever (mine is cracked) and trigger return spring. I'm pretty certain there must be other stocks and cocking levers that are compatible with the 94.  

This was my first gun  at age 6....back in 1955. Still shoots but the stock is not usable. I now have a handful of grandsons under 11 that are now receiving their first Daisy. I'm wanting to put my 94 back in good order for the Sunday shoots we have. 



Replies:
Posted By: cobalt327
Date Posted: February-18-2021 at 11:59pm
The Daisy 94s were made in Plymouth, MI and Rogers, AR.

The 94 Red Ryder levers were straight w/no paint and had 3-stars cast into them (my personal favorite design straight alloy lever). This lever was used on a lot of guns, but most were painted.

There were 94 Red Ryder stocks that had the steer/Red Ryder, and other didn't. Some had an eyelet in the buttstock, some didn't. Some had a leather boot. They had a faux hammer attached. 

The model 97 had the hammer, too, but I don't know if the length of pull are the same, and the 97 had no embossing or eyelet as far as I know. At least some model 660s had the hammer, and also had a silver straight 3-star lever. Probably the closest thing to a 94 Red Ryder that I know of, but it didn't shoot BBs. Also, I don't know the LOP.

660

Then there were non Red Ryder 94s. Known as the Western Carbine, some had a painted lever and non embossed stock. With and without hammer.
I'm sure there are a lot more differences and details I know nothing about. But to the best of my knowledge, there's no stock crossover in print.

But if you are just looking to make the gun useable again, I'd suggest a wood Red Ryder stock. They're available new (ugly stain, but still...), and used
as well. Any high-pivot lever will work just fine, too. You ought to be able to find both for around $20-25 bucks?

2-19-21 ETA: match the lever shape to the stock.


Posted By: 7Shoot
Date Posted: February-19-2021 at 8:45am
Cobalt327 Many thanks for the reply and info. Case of brain fade....mine was made in Mi. Also has a serial number stamped on it, B054118. 

Regarding the stock, wouldn't it be necessary to get a cocking lever to match the curve of the stock? I'd be concerned the straight cocking lever on my 94 would not seat properly against the curved bottom of the current Red Ryder stocks. Additionally, if I remember correctly form 60+ years ago, the end of the stock that fits into the  gun has an offset in it,  like a short top tang. From what I'm seeing on the web is the current stocks are all squared off.   


Posted By: cobalt327
Date Posted: February-19-2021 at 10:01am
Assuming you have a broken lever now, match the replacement lever to whatever stock you intend to use. Thanks for pointing it out.

A stock from a 1938B Red Ryder would need some relatively minor work- a hole for the trigger return spring, and possibly clearancing for the trigger. A stock from the No. 1938 Red Ryder Carbine or 111-40 Red Ryder will work as-is, as will most any lever action stock from a gun having a stamped steel trigger.


Posted By: Airitis
Date Posted: February-19-2021 at 1:58pm
If I'm following this correctly, one issue is whether to use a new RR stock and change the cocking lever, or use an old straight stock and keep the straight lever.   Maybe you could keep the straight lever and use a new model 10 stock.

The model 10 seems to be the forgotten hybrid of a Red Ryder and a 105 Buck. Come to think of it, a 105 BUCK stock (shorter of course) would work also. Just a few more options to consider.

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Air-It-Is


Posted By: 7Shoot
Date Posted: February-19-2021 at 3:45pm
Many thanks for the feedback and info. Will start a search for a Model 10 or 105 Buck.  Stock and lever are the  most important items as I can probably  fashion a return spring from something off the shelf. 

Anyone ever tied to weld the cast aluminum cocking lever?  My welder at the plant can weld two beer cans together so i thought I'd  give him a shot at welding it if I ever find a replacement first.


Posted By: Bavaria55n
Date Posted: February-20-2021 at 1:28pm
Cobalt, are the 94 stocks without the steer the short stocks?
My first airgun was an 80 Long Rifle and it had a short stock without the Plainsman on it.
Gary


Posted By: Airitis
Date Posted: February-20-2021 at 1:52pm
7, I have a few short stocks and a few straight aluminum levers. My email address is in my profile.

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Air-It-Is


Posted By: cobalt327
Date Posted: February-20-2021 at 3:09pm
Originally posted by Bavaria55n Bavaria55n wrote:

Cobalt, are the 94 stocks without the steer the short stocks?
My first airgun was an 80 Long Rifle and it had a short stock without the Plainsman on it.
Gary
Gary, at least some 94's that were not Red Ryders had shorter stocks and shot tubes, but there were some 94 Red Ryders made w/o embossing on their stocks and I think those stocks are the longer type. Below is a 94 non Red Ryder over a 94 Red Ryder for comparison. 


Personally, I don't like shooting with an uber short buttstock. All of my guns have at least
a Red Ryder-length of pull, and most are longer than that because Shane makes them
to suit me. Below is a 104 (like the 102 or 105 Buck in size) with Red Ryder furniture,
below it is an adult length stock on a 1938B Red Ryder, also for comparison.


Finally, these are the different LOP stocks stacked on each other.







Posted By: Airitis
Date Posted: February-20-2021 at 7:10pm
BTW 7Shoot, I know this might sound silly, but if you want to trade your broken lever for one of mine I'd be willing.   If the break is in the loop. Also, it sounds like you are more interested in having the gun usable rather than authentically restored. If so, I can help you out.   Why would I want a broken lever?   I often modify them anyway.   Seriously, contact me via email.   I may also have another possible solution for both the stock and lever.   

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Air-It-Is


Posted By: cobalt327
Date Posted: February-21-2021 at 8:52am
Another thing to consider- if the lever broke from a blow, like the gun fell or was dropped, etc. that's one thing. But if the lever failed due to a too-high cocking effort, that should be corrected first. The lever pivot only needs a drop of oil occasionally, and the tip of the lever that contacts the plunger tube 'sear' should get a smear of good grease on reassembly.




Posted By: 7Shoot
Date Posted: February-21-2021 at 8:52am
I really don't know if the my 94 (carbine stamped on the barrel) is a short or longer stock. I broke it about 50 years agoSmile.


Posted By: cobalt327
Date Posted: February-21-2021 at 9:18am
Not written in stone, but in this case the photo should hold:


If originality isn't an issue, I'd go with the more comfortable LOP of a longer stock, regardless of what it came with.


Posted By: Airitis
Date Posted: February-21-2021 at 1:38pm
Great reference.   And 7Shoot, one more thing to chew on.   Just because a gun was made with an aluminum lever doesn't mean it won't work with a plastic one.   In several cases I've interchanged plastic with aluminum and thus put old guns back in service.   Both straight and curved levers.

Possibilities abound!

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Air-It-Is



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