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Problems with Daisy Model 25's

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almyjmoore View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-30-2016 at 10:55pm
   I bought two Model 25 Daisy BB guns today. One of them was missing the air tube and I'm in the process of replacing that with one from a parts gun. This is my first time taking apart a 25 (except in 1957, and that gun is still in pieces as far as I know). I'm having trouble getting the compression spring back in and under spring tension. I can't find a "how to" on the internet.
   The other 25 shoots out two BBs at a time. I tried another shot tube and got the same results. Can anyone tell what the likely problem is. Thanks, Al
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 39hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2016 at 11:49pm
Ai, I think you will find a Model 25 factory service manual very helpful. Copy and paste this link in your browser.  I checked and found one for sale on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Daisy-Model-25-BB-Gun-Factory-Service-Manual-/152020215650?hash=item23651c6762:g:ackAAMXQKQhRHWaz
Pat
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almyjmoore View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote almyjmoore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2016 at 9:25am
I got the model 25 back together with the new air tube and it is a powerful shooter. Now, I have a new problem - after I cock it, it fires as soon as the cocking handle is fully extended. No trigger needed. What is the normal cause and adjustment for this problem?  Also, I still have the other model 25 that fires two BBs with each pull of the trigger. The two bbs only go about 10 feet out of the gun. What do you suppose the problem is? Thanks, Al
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almyjmoore View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote almyjmoore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2016 at 9:48am
I just discovered that if I hold the trigger all the way forward, it will cock and fire like it should. It's like it has a weak trigger spring but it worked good before I replaced the air tube. I really hate to get into the trigger spring because of the horror stories I've heard about replacing it. Does anyone have any ideas about what could be wrong? Thanks, Al 
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RedRyderUSA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RedRyderUSA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2016 at 7:14pm
When they shoot 2 bbs at a time I found out that some air tubes are shorter than others and let 2 bbs in the shot tube. I had measured a few I had and one was 1/4 of an inch longer and worked right. If it's shooting weak most of the time the rubber seals have shrunk a but or the abutment washer seal has deformed and not letting air compress. The problem with the gun shooting without pulling the trigger is the trigger sear, plunger, or both. I usually try filing the sear back square again and try that first.
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almyjmoore View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote almyjmoore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2016 at 10:44pm
Thanks. I started by filing to square off the plunger frame plate that the sear catches. There is some improvement. If I return the cocking arm slowly, it doesn't fire but the normal return will fire the gun. Tomorrow I will take out the trigger and work on squaring off the sear. I expect I will be having trouble getting the trigger spring back in. Also, I solved the double bb problem with the other Model 25 by adjusting that pin looking thing (in the magazine) that keeps the bb from rolling out of the barrel. I can see how a shorter air tube could create that same problem. Thanks, Al
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote podgey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2018 at 12:18am
Hello. I have the same problem with the gun shooting without pulling the trigger. You say filing the Sear back to even will fix that. What is the sear?? What does it look like?? Thanks, Podgey
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dannop2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2018 at 11:38am
This is an old thread but have you made sure it's just not missing the trigger spring ? , if you put pressure on the trigger , keeping it forward while cocking and then pulling the trigger does it work OK ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote podgey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2018 at 2:33pm
Dannop2 Yes it works when you do that. I already replaced the trigger spring so it must be the other thing with the worn sear. Still don't know what the sear is or what it looks like. I found a schematic diagram of the 25 and it does not show a part called a sear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cobalt327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2018 at 3:37pm
Originally posted by podgey podgey wrote:

Dannop2 Yes it works when you do that. I already replaced the trigger spring so it must be the other thing with the worn sear. Still don't know what the sear is or what it looks like. I found a schematic diagram of the 25 and it does not show a part called a sear.
I've never had an early, pre-plastic trigger model 25 apart so all I can offer to try is when the gun is apart, if you hold the plunger assembly in one hand and the trigger in the other, you can see the the relationship between the trigger and the plunger assembly. The parts of the trigger (shown in bottom drawing below) and plunger that catch and hold each other are what is being talked about as the sear surfaces. If they're too worn, the trigger pull will be too light and can get to the point where the gun will not reliably cock. Often dressing these surfaces with a fine file will restore function. The Daisy manual calls for a minimum of 2-1/2 lbs. trigger pull with used parts (no less than 3-1/2 lbs. with new parts) and recommend replacement if it's less. But OEM parts that are in good condition can be hard to find and that's why dressing the surfaces is done. Be sure and do the bump test after working on the fire control group to be sure the gun is safe.
 
I'm posting a couple drawings showing the correct position for the trigger spring. If yours is correct no problem but this might help someone else when they're doing a search on it. The bottom drawing has the trigger sear identified so that could help you when you see how it interacts with the plunger assembly. And good luck!
 
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