|
stock fitment/cross refererence |
Post Reply 
|
Page 12> |
| Author | |
7Shoot 
Newbie 
Joined: February-18-2021 Location: Greensboro Points: 5 |
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote Reply
 Topic: stock fitment/cross refererencePosted: February-18-2021 at 6:37pm |
|
Has anyone developed a cross reference for stock fitment? Essentially I have a Model 94 (NY manufacture) and looking for a replacement stock, cocking lever (mine is cracked) and trigger return spring. I'm pretty certain there must be other stocks and cocking levers that are compatible with the 94.
This was my first gun at age 6....back in 1955. Still shoots but the stock is not usable. I now have a handful of grandsons under 11 that are now receiving their first Daisy. I'm wanting to put my 94 back in good order for the Sunday shoots we have.
|
|
 |
|
|
cobalt327
Red Ryder Member 
Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 2118 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: February-18-2021 at 11:59pm |
|
The Daisy 94s were made in Plymouth, MI and Rogers, AR.
The 94 Red Ryder levers were straight w/no paint and had 3-stars cast into them (my personal favorite design straight alloy lever). This lever was used on a lot of guns, but most were painted. There were 94 Red Ryder stocks that had the steer/Red Ryder, and other didn't. Some had an eyelet in the buttstock, some didn't. Some had a leather boot. They had a faux hammer attached. The model 97 had the hammer, too, but I don't know if the length of pull are the same, and the 97 had no embossing or eyelet as far as I know. At least some model 660s had the hammer, and also had a silver straight 3-star lever. Probably the closest thing to a 94 Red Ryder that I know of, but it didn't shoot BBs. Also, I don't know the LOP.
660  Then there were non Red Ryder 94s. Known as the Western Carbine, some had a painted lever and non embossed stock. With and without hammer. I'm sure there are a lot more differences and details I know nothing about. But to the best of my knowledge, there's no stock crossover in print. But if you are just looking to make the gun useable again, I'd suggest a wood Red Ryder stock. They're available new (ugly stain, but still...), and used as well. Any high-pivot lever will work just fine, too. You ought to be able to find both for around $20-25 bucks? 2-19-21 ETA: match the lever shape to the stock.
|
|
|
|
|
7Shoot
Newbie
Joined: February-18-2021 Location: Greensboro Points: 5 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: February-19-2021 at 8:45am |
|
Cobalt327 Many thanks for the reply and info. Case of brain fade....mine was made in Mi. Also has a serial number stamped on it, B054118.
Regarding the stock, wouldn't it be necessary to get a cocking lever to match the curve of the stock? I'd be concerned the straight cocking lever on my 94 would not seat properly against the curved bottom of the current Red Ryder stocks. Additionally, if I remember correctly form 60+ years ago, the end of the stock that fits into the gun has an offset in it, like a short top tang. From what I'm seeing on the web is the current stocks are all squared off.
|
|
|
|
|
cobalt327
Red Ryder Member
Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 2118 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: February-19-2021 at 10:01am |
|
Assuming you have a broken lever now, match the replacement lever to whatever stock you intend to use. Thanks for pointing it out.
A stock from a 1938B Red Ryder would need some relatively minor work- a hole for the trigger return spring, and possibly clearancing for the trigger. A stock from the No. 1938 Red Ryder Carbine or 111-40 Red Ryder will work as-is, as will most any lever action stock from a gun having a stamped steel trigger.
|
|
|
|
|
Airitis
Red Ryder Member
Joined: October-06-2016 Location: PA Points: 666 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: February-19-2021 at 1:58pm |
|
If I'm following this correctly, one issue is whether to use a new RR stock and change the cocking lever, or use an old straight stock and keep the straight lever. Maybe you could keep the straight lever and use a new model 10 stock.
The model 10 seems to be the forgotten hybrid of a Red Ryder and a 105 Buck. Come to think of it, a 105 BUCK stock (shorter of course) would work also. Just a few more options to consider. |
|
|
Air-It-Is
|
|
|
|
|
7Shoot
Newbie
Joined: February-18-2021 Location: Greensboro Points: 5 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: February-19-2021 at 3:45pm |
|
Many thanks for the feedback and info. Will start a search for a Model 10 or 105 Buck. Stock and lever are the most important items as I can probably fashion a return spring from something off the shelf.
Anyone ever tied to weld the cast aluminum cocking lever? My welder at the plant can weld two beer cans together so i thought I'd give him a shot at welding it if I ever find a replacement first.
|
|
|
|
|
Bavaria55n
Red Ryder Member
Joined: October-12-2015 Location: CentralIllinois Points: 682 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: February-20-2021 at 1:28pm |
|
Cobalt, are the 94 stocks without the steer the short stocks?
My first airgun was an 80 Long Rifle and it had a short stock without the Plainsman on it. Gary
|
|
|
|
|
Airitis
Red Ryder Member
Joined: October-06-2016 Location: PA Points: 666 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: February-20-2021 at 1:52pm |
|
7, I have a few short stocks and a few straight aluminum levers. My email address is in my profile.
|
|
|
Air-It-Is
|
|
|
|
|
cobalt327
Red Ryder Member
Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 2118 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: February-20-2021 at 3:09pm |
 Personally, I don't like shooting with an uber short buttstock. All of my guns have at least a Red Ryder-length of pull, and most are longer than that because Shane makes them to suit me. Below is a 104 (like the 102 or 105 Buck in size) with Red Ryder furniture, below it is an adult length stock on a 1938B Red Ryder, also for comparison.  Finally, these are the different LOP stocks stacked on each other.  |
|
|
|
|
Airitis
Red Ryder Member
Joined: October-06-2016 Location: PA Points: 666 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: February-20-2021 at 7:10pm |
|
BTW 7Shoot, I know this might sound silly, but if you want to trade your broken lever for one of mine I'd be willing. If the break is in the loop. Also, it sounds like you are more interested in having the gun usable rather than authentically restored. If so, I can help you out. Why would I want a broken lever? I often modify them anyway. Seriously, contact me via email. I may also have another possible solution for both the stock and lever.
|
|
|
Air-It-Is
|
|
|
|
|
Post Reply
|
Page 12> |
Tweet
|
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
Topic Options
Bavaria55n wrote: