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Air tube soldering.

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cobalt327 View Drop Down
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    Posted: May-14-2022 at 8:09am
Originally posted by twocompassheads twocompassheads wrote:

He did a great job of restoring the Buck Jones.  A lot of time and effort went into it.
He really did! He mentioned yesterday that he got the trigger spring sorted out and it's shooting fine again!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cobalt327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-14-2022 at 8:04am
Originally posted by T.C. T.C. wrote:

Small world Mark I used to make and sell slot car drag car chassis, piano wire and brass tubing.
I used a product called Stay Brite , it's a silver bearing solder with really good flux.
Some welding shops carry it in a small kit also hobby shops if ya can find one of hose nowadays.
I still use it as my go to solder, I even soldered electrical stuff with it by using rosin flux.
It has the highest silver content of any soft solder but still has a melting point of around 400 degrees if I remember rite?
I used it to solder up one of my stainless barrels just the other day.
Terry
I don't want to get too far afield here, but you probably recognize the motor below. I raced it in Group 7, aka "open class", using a spring steel chassis on a Blue King way back in the early '90s. But my main class was International 15. I did pretty well, was FL state points champ in '94. It's hard to believe that was almost 30 years ago!






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twocompassheads View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote twocompassheads Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-13-2022 at 4:26pm
He did a great job of restoring the Buck Jones.  A lot of time and effort went into it.
Ride and Have Fun
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gkenny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gkenny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2022 at 3:04pm
 Thank you, Undertaker, I will try that this afternoon, gkenny.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote undertaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2022 at 2:44pm
Ken, hold the trigger forward as you pull back on the pump. If it catches, then you have a trigger spring issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gkenny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2022 at 1:16pm
Hi Matt, thanks for letting me have your e-mail address.

Your restoration of the Daisy Buck Jones model 107 was excellent! The best information I have ever seen!

I was successful in completing the addition of the air tube and leather seal because of your information in that restoration.

Even though I am 82 years old, I have never done any soldering before but your clear, precise directions and photos gave me the incentive to try it. I am a retired artist/inventor so I have never had the necessity to solder. I used the Harris Stay Bright kit shown on Amazon.

My gun is almost mint condition and worth the trouble to repair, but none of the known air gun repair people answered my request.

The gun is now finished but unfortunately I can’t test fire it because the gun pumps back but will not lock on the sear and so just stops until I let it spring back with the front grip.

Any suggestions as to what I am doing wrong? The trigger spring may have slipped, could that be it?

Any help here will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for sharing the best restoration video I have ever seen!

Stay safe, regards, Ken.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gkenny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2022 at 1:13pm
Thank you Matt, but when I try your e-mail address, it gets rejected for being invalid.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote restorology Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2022 at 10:35pm
Originally posted by gkenny gkenny wrote:

 Thank you Matt, I do have some questions: I cannot solder my stainless steel tubing to the plunger head, the tubing just does not want to stick. I am awaiting the brass tubing from China.

Thanks again, great video and restoration!

Regards, gkenny. 

I used a silver solder made for metal working that I got at Home Depot but I just went to its website to copy the link to it and I don't see it listed. It must not be carried anymore and I cannot remember the brand but try a silver solder with flux and make sure that the surfaces are super clean. I might have even etched mine with a diluted acid first to clean off any impurities. My e-mail is restorologymail@gmail.com if you have any other questions. Good luck! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote restorology Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2022 at 10:21pm
Originally posted by gkenny gkenny wrote:

 Hi Matt, I can't find your email address in your profile or your channel page, can you help me out here?

 Thank you very much, regards, gkenny.

Hey. Sorry I haven't checked this in a few days. My email is restorologymail@gmail.com. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T.C. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2022 at 9:07am
Small world Mark I used to make and sell slot car drag car chassis, piano wire and brass tubing.
I used a product called Stay Brite , it's a silver bearing solder with really good flux.
Some welding shops carry it in a small kit also hobby shops if ya can find one of hose nowadays.
I still use it as my go to solder, I even soldered electrical stuff with it by using rosin flux.
It has the highest silver content of any soft solder but still has a melting point of around 400 degrees if I remember rite?
I used it to solder up one of my stainless barrels just the other day.
Terry
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