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plymouth daisy 25 lubrication

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jtopper View Drop Down

Joined: July-10-2019
Location: pittsburgh
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jtopper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: plymouth daisy 25 lubrication
    Posted: July-10-2019 at 9:37am
   I have a Daisy Model 25 that I inherited from my grandfather in the early 50s.  It's a rarely used item, but I am now concerned about lubricating this item.  The only manual that I have been able to find is for the Rogers version of this rifle.  My gun I am sure is from the 30s if not 20s.  It was manufactured in Plymouth Mich.  The Rogers version of this gun shows a lubrication hole at the top of the barrel where you are to use 2 drops of 20 wt. motor oil.  My gun right now is well lubricated as determined by the blue smoke that leaves the barrel when you fire it.  As a maintenance item, how do I lubricate this gun.  I don't want to ruin the plunger before I've had time to research it further.  The wood pull handle mechanism of the rifle has six grooves.  I've seen some online version of this gun having five grooves.  I appreciate any feedback you can give me,  Also is there any kind of manual for this gun?
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BSAGuy View Drop Down
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Joined: January-30-2019
Location: Central NC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BSAGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2019 at 2:15pm
Hello and welcome, jtopper.  Great to have you here.

Here is information on oiling leather seal guns like you have.  I copied this from Cobalt327 here, so he gets all the credit for this:

Leather seal guns don’t have an “OIL HERE” hole. Oiling the seals is done by dripping oil in from (i) the lever flange area and (ii) the shot tube, preferably through the air tube on the plunger.  When oiling, use a block of wood between the cocking lever and receiver to keep the gun in a partially cocked position before dripping the oil in.  This holds the plunger piston away from the barrel seal so that the oil can get between the two.


After applying the oil, switch between butt down and muzzle down about twice a day for up to a week. Be sure to have the gun over a paper towel to catch the oil that inevitably leaks out.

Getting oil to the seals can be done more efficiently by using a length of 3/16” OD K&S brass hobby tubing that has a short length of weed trimmer fuel line (or similar tubing) attached to the end of it. This flexible tubing should fit snuggly over a 5/64" drill bit shank - that's the OD of the air tube.

This flexible tubing only needs to be +/- ¼” long past the end of the brass tube.  It needs to be short enough so that it can be pushed onto the air tube without flexing too much or seal oiling will turn into an exercise in frustration.  Affix the flex tube on the brass tube either dry or use adhesive so it doesn't slip up the brass tube when you push it onto the air tube. It helps to oil the air tube end of the flex tubing, just not the brass end. This will help it go over the air tube OD easier.

After this brass tube has been inserted over the end of the air tube, drip +/- a dozen drops of oil into the brass tubing and allow it to drain, or it can be blown, down into the compression chamber between the barrel seal and the plunger seal.

Add oil to your leather seals as needed - you should hear a wet squishing sound when you work the lever from closed to partially open. There is no need to fully cock the gun during this process but if you do it’s no problem, just dry fire it avoiding the oil that will spray out. If this does not revive the gun, new seals are required.

Once you have completed the soaking, dry fire the gun a couple dozen times with the muzzle down to help get rid of the excess oil. Also clean the inside of the barrel shroud where the BBs are stored when you load the gun. Oil there will make the BBs and shot tube oily. Any oil on the BBs or in the shot tube kills accuracy so don't expect a gun to shoot to POA while the shot tube is oily inside.

Clean the shot tube often. Eventually patches will come out clean but it will take a lot of shooting and a lot of cleanings before they do. Also, the gun will continue to smoke from the shot tube long after the soaking is done, but it's harmless other than some oil may still come out in a fine mist that can settle on things so be aware of that.

Use a thin viscosity motor oil and don't give a second though to it being a detergent oil. Pellgunoil is detergent motor oil, after all. In fact, I use detergent multi-grade motor oil, 5w-20 Mobil 1.

Here is a good thread on rejuvenating /replacing leather seals - http://forum.daisymuseum.com/rejuvenate-or-replace-leather-seals_topic8070.html


Be Prepared
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Airitis View Drop Down
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Joined: October-06-2016
Location: PA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Airitis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2019 at 2:18pm
Hello jtopper,

I can't offer more of a detailed explanation than that but want to comment on the fact that you are a fellow Pittsburgher. I don't live there right now but find myself there several times during the year. I still have ties there. I communicate often with another member in 'da Burgh and would like to have another BBgunner in the area. My email address is in my member profile. Drop me a line when you can.
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cobalt327 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cobalt327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2019 at 3:46pm
JT, you have a real classic, and even better that it's a family heirloom! if you're seeing the tell-tail wisps of smoke after a shot, you are correct that the seals are sufficiently oiled. Once the leather seals are saturated, the gun will not require additional oil on the seals for a long time. Oil hurts accuracy of a smoothbore BB gun, so if that's important to you, get in the habit of cleaning the shot tube every time it runs out of BBs. I use alcohol on a .177 cotton mop but patches work too.

The No. 25 has several other points where oil should be occasionally applied- anywhere that there's metal to metal sliding contact like the pump arm pivots. Your gun is blued so protect the finish with an oily cloth wipedown or use a preparation like Ballistol. It can be used on the wood stock and pump handle as well.

If your gun does not have any 'engraving' on it, it dates between 1930 and 1935. If it has the rolled engraving, it's 1935 to as late as 1952. More on dating your gun can be seen here: http://www.daisyking.com/history/PumpGuns/TheNo25PumpGun.htm There's a pretty good chance your gun will be among the years shown here: http://www.daisyking.com/history/PumpGuns/PistolGripStockNo25s.htm

I believe DT forum member jackdog sells repro hang tags for this gun.
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