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stock fitment/cross refererence |
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Airitis ![]() Red Ryder Member ![]() ![]() Joined: October-06-2016 Location: PA Points: 680 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: February-21-2021 at 1:38pm |
Great reference. And 7Shoot, one more thing to chew on. Just because a gun was made with an aluminum lever doesn't mean it won't work with a plastic one. In several cases I've interchanged plastic with aluminum and thus put old guns back in service. Both straight and curved levers.
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cobalt327 ![]() Red Ryder Member ![]() ![]() Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 2144 |
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Not written in stone, but in this case the photo should hold:
![]() If originality isn't an issue, I'd go with the more comfortable LOP of a longer stock, regardless of what it came with.
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7Shoot ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: February-18-2021 Location: Greensboro Points: 5 |
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I really don't know if the my 94 (carbine stamped on the barrel) is a short or longer stock. I broke it about 50 years ago
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cobalt327 ![]() Red Ryder Member ![]() ![]() Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 2144 |
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Another thing to consider- if the lever broke from a blow, like the gun fell or was dropped, etc. that's one thing. But if the lever failed due to a too-high cocking effort, that should be corrected first. The lever pivot only needs a drop of oil occasionally, and the tip of the lever that contacts the plunger tube 'sear' should get a smear of good grease on reassembly.
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Airitis ![]() Red Ryder Member ![]() ![]() Joined: October-06-2016 Location: PA Points: 680 |
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BTW 7Shoot, I know this might sound silly, but if you want to trade your broken lever for one of mine I'd be willing. If the break is in the loop. Also, it sounds like you are more interested in having the gun usable rather than authentically restored. If so, I can help you out. Why would I want a broken lever? I often modify them anyway. Seriously, contact me via email. I may also have another possible solution for both the stock and lever.
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cobalt327 ![]() Red Ryder Member ![]() ![]() Joined: November-15-2013 Points: 2144 |
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![]() Personally, I don't like shooting with an uber short buttstock. All of my guns have at least a Red Ryder-length of pull, and most are longer than that because Shane makes them to suit me. Below is a 104 (like the 102 or 105 Buck in size) with Red Ryder furniture, below it is an adult length stock on a 1938B Red Ryder, also for comparison. ![]() Finally, these are the different LOP stocks stacked on each other. ![]() |
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Airitis ![]() Red Ryder Member ![]() ![]() Joined: October-06-2016 Location: PA Points: 680 |
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7, I have a few short stocks and a few straight aluminum levers. My email address is in my profile.
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Bavaria55n ![]() Red Ryder Member ![]() Joined: October-12-2015 Location: CentralIllinois Points: 687 |
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Cobalt, are the 94 stocks without the steer the short stocks?
My first airgun was an 80 Long Rifle and it had a short stock without the Plainsman on it. Gary
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7Shoot ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: February-18-2021 Location: Greensboro Points: 5 |
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Many thanks for the feedback and info. Will start a search for a Model 10 or 105 Buck. Stock and lever are the most important items as I can probably fashion a return spring from something off the shelf.
Anyone ever tied to weld the cast aluminum cocking lever? My welder at the plant can weld two beer cans together so i thought I'd give him a shot at welding it if I ever find a replacement first.
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Airitis ![]() Red Ryder Member ![]() ![]() Joined: October-06-2016 Location: PA Points: 680 |
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If I'm following this correctly, one issue is whether to use a new RR stock and change the cocking lever, or use an old straight stock and keep the straight lever. Maybe you could keep the straight lever and use a new model 10 stock.
The model 10 seems to be the forgotten hybrid of a Red Ryder and a 105 Buck. Come to think of it, a 105 BUCK stock (shorter of course) would work also. Just a few more options to consider. |
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